Summary of time:
· Alcatraz
· Walk the city & Coit Tower
· Ride the Golden Gate Bridge
Handy hints –
§ Get a map of the city, and take the hop on/off to help get bearings, or talk to other people for ideas.
§ For Alcatraz in high season book in advance and either get the first trip of the day. At all times another time to visit is around 3pm and then you can catch the last ferry back at around 6pm. The ferry journey is half an hour, each way.
§ Bike Ride across the Bridge – know your limits on riding, some ups and downs. Take plenty of water; be aware of ferry times back.
Getting into the station at Emeryville, there was not much time to wait to catch the bus over to San Fran. Arriving at the Ferry Terminal stop i should have bought my train ticket then for the trip to Fresno, but didn’t think about it, and made my way across to catch one of the buses that would get me a couple of blocks from the hostel by Union Square.
It was too early to get booked into the hostel, but at least i was able to leave my stuff in the luggage store, and go out for the day. I spent a short while planning the things i wanted to do, and realised i should get my train ticket, so it would mean going back to the ferry terminal stop! Relieved of the luggage, it was much easier to walk the 12 blocks, and it was a nice day. Having got my ticket it was then off to sort out my ticket for Alcatraz.
When i visited San Francisco back in ’93 with my brother and parents, this was one tourist trip we didn’t do, and it was on my list of things to do on this trip....i wasn’t going to miss doing it. I wasn’t sure which day i would get to go, as i had heard it was best to book way in advance, i got down there for around 11.30am, and if i had wanted there was still space on the 12pm ferry! Obviously the right time of year to come, there are less people around. But i was going to follow the advice of a fellow traveller and get the 3.20pm ferry and then i could catch the last ferry back at 6.10pm – there are even less people around at this point. Yep, no problems for the ticket.
There was a few hours to wait, so i headed off for lunch at Hard Rock Cafe, and then found myself a quite spot to enjoy the sunshine (with a slight breeze), before i was due to catch the ferry.
To get on the ferry, there is a security check, also the “obligatory” tourist photo taken ready for your return (these vary in costs from $15 -$25 and have been at a lot of the tourist sites in the various cities i visited). The journey was good, we were fortunate, that despite a gentle breeze there were no real waves on the bay.
Arriving at the Island, there is a small orientation talk, and then you are left to wander off by yourself. There is a good orientation film (free) which gives a good overview of the history of the island, and memories from some of the residents.
Alcatraz Island has had a varied history, in 1847 during the Gold Rush, a lighthouse was built on the site, to help the increasing ship traffic into San Francisco, whose population had grown from 300 people to 20,000 people by 1849. As part of a 3 point defensive strategy of the Bay, the military board in 1850 recommended that a massive brick fort be built on either side of the Golden Gate, with a smaller fortification on Alcatraz. The construction started in 1853.
Over 400 soldiers were based at Alcatraz, with Cannon batteries on every side, but improving military technology meant that the island’s fortifications became obsolete in 1892, but was not fully decommissioned until 1907. The fort used by the soldiers is still visible today, with the Sally Port and it’s guardhouse still being the entranceway up to the higher elevations. Some of the buildings have become derelict, but slowly restoration is happening. The army barracks know as Building 64, were used during the time of the Prison for the Officers and their families.
The Island was a prison even in the days of the fort, the first prisoners were 11 soldiers in 1859 who were held in the Sally Port, and for many years soldiers convicted of crimes were held here, also civilian prisoners started to arrive in 1861. Prisoners included crew of a Confederate ship, Hopi, Apache & Modoc Indians captured during the various Indian wars (mid/late 19th centenary) and military convicts from the Spanish American war of 1898.
Following the decommissioning in 1907, a US Military Guard was moved onto the island and started to remove some of the buildings at the higher elevation and built a huge concrete cell house, when it was finished it was the largest steel-reinforced concrete building in the world (1912). And some of those who helped build the cell house, were some of the first residents. In 1915 this was the “United States Disciplinary Barracks, Pacific Branch”, and held conscientious objectors to WWI.
In 1934, ownership of the Island was transferred from the War Dept to the Dept of Justice, and it was reopened as a federal penitentiary – the place was to be a high profile, maximum security facility.
In its time as a prison there were 1,545 inmates, but only a handful were notorious, many were just problems in other prisons – escape risks and troublemakers. Before the Prison was closed in 1963, there were 14 attempts to escape the federal prison; one in June 1962 became the basis for the film Escape from Alcatraz. The bodies of these convicts were never found, but are assumed to have drowned. All other attempter’s were either captured or accounted for.
In 1969 there was a 19 month occupation of the Island by the “Indians of all Nations”, which was a landmark in intertribal cooperation. They offered to buy Alcatraz from the federal government for the same price that Manhattan Island was bought in 1626 - $24 in beads, coloured cloth and other trade goods. The occupation and interest in it, were fuelled by a growing national awareness of Native American issues. At the start there was huge support, with food and financial support, but over time this dwindled, and the last few residents were removed in June 1971.
In 1972 Congress made the Golden Gate National Recreational Area, which included Alcatraz, which stopped the current plans of dismantling the buildings. In 1973 a interpretive program was developed and the first visitors arrive.
You are able to walk around and see some of the other buildings on the Island, but obviously the main attraction is the Cell house. On entering the building you go into the room that inmates would have entered on arrival, there were the showers - no walls or dividers here – and also the area where they would have been issued with the uniform and soap etc, before being allocated their cells. You join a queue and wait to be issued with your headphones and tour guide. Then you follow the others on the tour around the building. The tour is given by inmates and guards, recounting not just information but some of their own experiences, i believe at high season, you can actually meet some of them as they return to the bookstore, to sign books, and will tell more of their stories.
It was interesting to see the gun alleys, at either end of B and C block, behind bars where guards would patrol up and down with their shotguns. The guards who were down by the cells, would not have guns, or keys to get out of the alleys by the cells, they would be passed a key at the appropriate times. The key to get outside to the recreational yard would be lowered from the gun alley when required.
The prison did have riots, and a couple of guards were killed.
Seeing the prison, and the location on the island, reminds the depravity experienced by being in prison. Although by all accounts the prison was clean and the food was good. The prison was closed as it was not able to improve with changes in various regulations and the increasing costs in operating and maintenance.
There is no death row at Alcatraz or any facility for executions. In the time of the Prison, 8 inmates were killed by other inmates, 5 committed suicide, and 15 died of natural causes.
It was definitely worth the visit, i learnt a lot more about the history of the island than previously known – it’s other lives before it was the infamous prison.
The journey back was good, still no waves on the bay, and we got to see the sun start to set over the bridge.
It was time to get some tea and to check in at the hostel.
The next morning as i was leaving the hostel for a day of meandering and wandering, i met one of the German girls who i had shared a room with in Seattle, she had taken the same train journey as me 24 hours later. We headed off out to see the “Love Fest” parade. In San Fran this weekend there was Love Fest – Electronic/Rave/DJ music, and also a Blues Grass Festival, both free. We went to watch the parade, and it certainly made me feel old, despite being nr 12, loads of people were dressed for raving, the music was loud!!!! People were wearing varying degrees of clothing, and there was even a couple of blocks with only their shoes on! After we had lunch nr the hostel, we went our separate ways. I wandered off through China Town, up to Little Italy and then up Coit Tower.
Coit Tower was built from some money left to the city by a lady who had been rescued by fireman when she was 7 years old. She had wanted to become a fireman, but regulations would not let a female in, but she did become a mascot for the fireman, and also a fire volunteer. Some of her memories can be read at the tower, and there are some great murals. There is a fee to go up in the antiquated elevator, but on a clear day (like today) you get fantastic 360 degree views of the city and bay.
This was a day for meanderings, and it was great, but all the steps, and going up and down hills, did mean my knee was starting to ache.
My final day in San Fran, and i had set myself a challenge, to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and over to Sausalito, which is about 8 miles. The sun was out, and i did have my jacket as there was a bit of a breeze (prob could have done with a sweater though for the journey across the bridge, and for the ferry ride home). I also thought i might get up to Muir Woods National Monument to see the giant Redwoods, which would be another 10 miles as you would have to ride either back to Sausalito or to Tiburon to catch the ferry.
It was a great day for going for a ride. From the hostel i went down and caught the Cable Car from the corner of Union Square and Geary to Hyde Street – an experience that must be done in the city. I got the bike at the Cannery, and headed off along the waterfront, to Fort Mason – which was my first hill; my brother would call it a bump. I rode it, with a brief stop, i didn’t get off and push the bike. And then the route continues along the waterfront passed the beach to Fort Point – you could stop off and visit but i knew the climb ahead...you have to get up from sea level to the level of the road.....this is done over a distance of a few blocks, but with changing gears (unfortunately i managed to knock the chain off, so had to put it back on!!!) and a couple of rests, i did manage to ride the climb up. Others passed me, but i was determined to do it, and i was so pleased with myself!!!
It was a moment i had to pinch myself – i was riding across the Golden Gate Bridge. It was a great experience, when you reach the other side, you could just take pictures, and return by the route you came, but i was going to carry on. The Golden Gate bridge construction started in January 1933, and was opened for traffic in May 1937. There are loads of “fascinating” numerical facts, although for the bike ride the only fact is that it is 220ft above the mean high water (the height i had to climb) and the suspended bit (which i rode) was 1,966m.
The next short distance was the easiest part; it was all downhill back to sea level. The route then follows East Road into Sausalito, which has 1 final small hill to climb. I was given encouragement from drivers of a couple of cars who passed me. The descent down into Sausalito was good though. Sausalito is an up market harbour town, and there are no cheap cafe’s to get your food, but follow the signs to park up your bike (nr ferry terminal) and wander to find a cafe (unless you take your own lunch). After i had a great lunch, i headed off along the route to take me to Muir Woods, it was a great gentle ride, after a couple of miles i got to Bothin Marsh – a salt wetland, where i saw a few egrets – and then the path turns off to the Old Mill (which on the map is 14mile point) and i was less than 2 miles away, but my knee was starting to ache. I realised the easiest thing would be to turn round (also the shorter distance) and head back to Sausalito, which would mean that i would still do about 12 miles – not bad for me.
Getting back to the Ferry Terminal i joined the short queue for people and waited for 1 of the 2 ferry companies to turn up. The ticket i had was for 1 company, it was gone 3pm and they were not due in till 4.30pm, but the other ferry company let us board on their 3.50pm sailing, the only issue was that they would take us to the Ferry Terminal and not Pier 39, so it would mean a couple of miles to cycle to return the bike! The earlier sailing it was. I got chatting to some of my fellow passengers, who were from Canada, and interested to hear that i had recently been in Vancouver, but didn’t think that i would have been to their home town – Ottawa – they were pleased i had been and enjoyed it.
On returning the bike, i was worn out, and really didn’t fancy the long walk over the big hill of Hyde Street, and the Cable Car had a huge queue, so i thought i would try for the F Line Street Car – these street cars have come from all over the nation and the world. The street car took me within a block of the hostel. So i grabbed a bite to eat nr the hostel and went for a well earned rest.
The next day was moving day; i was heading to Fresno, Central California to stop with friends of my parents – a place to stop, chill out, catch up with myself, and just be.
· Alcatraz
· Walk the city & Coit Tower
· Ride the Golden Gate Bridge
Handy hints –
§ Get a map of the city, and take the hop on/off to help get bearings, or talk to other people for ideas.
§ For Alcatraz in high season book in advance and either get the first trip of the day. At all times another time to visit is around 3pm and then you can catch the last ferry back at around 6pm. The ferry journey is half an hour, each way.
§ Bike Ride across the Bridge – know your limits on riding, some ups and downs. Take plenty of water; be aware of ferry times back.
Getting into the station at Emeryville, there was not much time to wait to catch the bus over to San Fran. Arriving at the Ferry Terminal stop i should have bought my train ticket then for the trip to Fresno, but didn’t think about it, and made my way across to catch one of the buses that would get me a couple of blocks from the hostel by Union Square.
It was too early to get booked into the hostel, but at least i was able to leave my stuff in the luggage store, and go out for the day. I spent a short while planning the things i wanted to do, and realised i should get my train ticket, so it would mean going back to the ferry terminal stop! Relieved of the luggage, it was much easier to walk the 12 blocks, and it was a nice day. Having got my ticket it was then off to sort out my ticket for Alcatraz.
When i visited San Francisco back in ’93 with my brother and parents, this was one tourist trip we didn’t do, and it was on my list of things to do on this trip....i wasn’t going to miss doing it. I wasn’t sure which day i would get to go, as i had heard it was best to book way in advance, i got down there for around 11.30am, and if i had wanted there was still space on the 12pm ferry! Obviously the right time of year to come, there are less people around. But i was going to follow the advice of a fellow traveller and get the 3.20pm ferry and then i could catch the last ferry back at 6.10pm – there are even less people around at this point. Yep, no problems for the ticket.
There was a few hours to wait, so i headed off for lunch at Hard Rock Cafe, and then found myself a quite spot to enjoy the sunshine (with a slight breeze), before i was due to catch the ferry.
To get on the ferry, there is a security check, also the “obligatory” tourist photo taken ready for your return (these vary in costs from $15 -$25 and have been at a lot of the tourist sites in the various cities i visited). The journey was good, we were fortunate, that despite a gentle breeze there were no real waves on the bay.
Arriving at the Island, there is a small orientation talk, and then you are left to wander off by yourself. There is a good orientation film (free) which gives a good overview of the history of the island, and memories from some of the residents.
Alcatraz Island has had a varied history, in 1847 during the Gold Rush, a lighthouse was built on the site, to help the increasing ship traffic into San Francisco, whose population had grown from 300 people to 20,000 people by 1849. As part of a 3 point defensive strategy of the Bay, the military board in 1850 recommended that a massive brick fort be built on either side of the Golden Gate, with a smaller fortification on Alcatraz. The construction started in 1853.
Over 400 soldiers were based at Alcatraz, with Cannon batteries on every side, but improving military technology meant that the island’s fortifications became obsolete in 1892, but was not fully decommissioned until 1907. The fort used by the soldiers is still visible today, with the Sally Port and it’s guardhouse still being the entranceway up to the higher elevations. Some of the buildings have become derelict, but slowly restoration is happening. The army barracks know as Building 64, were used during the time of the Prison for the Officers and their families.
The Island was a prison even in the days of the fort, the first prisoners were 11 soldiers in 1859 who were held in the Sally Port, and for many years soldiers convicted of crimes were held here, also civilian prisoners started to arrive in 1861. Prisoners included crew of a Confederate ship, Hopi, Apache & Modoc Indians captured during the various Indian wars (mid/late 19th centenary) and military convicts from the Spanish American war of 1898.
Following the decommissioning in 1907, a US Military Guard was moved onto the island and started to remove some of the buildings at the higher elevation and built a huge concrete cell house, when it was finished it was the largest steel-reinforced concrete building in the world (1912). And some of those who helped build the cell house, were some of the first residents. In 1915 this was the “United States Disciplinary Barracks, Pacific Branch”, and held conscientious objectors to WWI.
In 1934, ownership of the Island was transferred from the War Dept to the Dept of Justice, and it was reopened as a federal penitentiary – the place was to be a high profile, maximum security facility.
In its time as a prison there were 1,545 inmates, but only a handful were notorious, many were just problems in other prisons – escape risks and troublemakers. Before the Prison was closed in 1963, there were 14 attempts to escape the federal prison; one in June 1962 became the basis for the film Escape from Alcatraz. The bodies of these convicts were never found, but are assumed to have drowned. All other attempter’s were either captured or accounted for.
In 1969 there was a 19 month occupation of the Island by the “Indians of all Nations”, which was a landmark in intertribal cooperation. They offered to buy Alcatraz from the federal government for the same price that Manhattan Island was bought in 1626 - $24 in beads, coloured cloth and other trade goods. The occupation and interest in it, were fuelled by a growing national awareness of Native American issues. At the start there was huge support, with food and financial support, but over time this dwindled, and the last few residents were removed in June 1971.
In 1972 Congress made the Golden Gate National Recreational Area, which included Alcatraz, which stopped the current plans of dismantling the buildings. In 1973 a interpretive program was developed and the first visitors arrive.
You are able to walk around and see some of the other buildings on the Island, but obviously the main attraction is the Cell house. On entering the building you go into the room that inmates would have entered on arrival, there were the showers - no walls or dividers here – and also the area where they would have been issued with the uniform and soap etc, before being allocated their cells. You join a queue and wait to be issued with your headphones and tour guide. Then you follow the others on the tour around the building. The tour is given by inmates and guards, recounting not just information but some of their own experiences, i believe at high season, you can actually meet some of them as they return to the bookstore, to sign books, and will tell more of their stories.
It was interesting to see the gun alleys, at either end of B and C block, behind bars where guards would patrol up and down with their shotguns. The guards who were down by the cells, would not have guns, or keys to get out of the alleys by the cells, they would be passed a key at the appropriate times. The key to get outside to the recreational yard would be lowered from the gun alley when required.
The prison did have riots, and a couple of guards were killed.
Seeing the prison, and the location on the island, reminds the depravity experienced by being in prison. Although by all accounts the prison was clean and the food was good. The prison was closed as it was not able to improve with changes in various regulations and the increasing costs in operating and maintenance.
There is no death row at Alcatraz or any facility for executions. In the time of the Prison, 8 inmates were killed by other inmates, 5 committed suicide, and 15 died of natural causes.
It was definitely worth the visit, i learnt a lot more about the history of the island than previously known – it’s other lives before it was the infamous prison.
The journey back was good, still no waves on the bay, and we got to see the sun start to set over the bridge.
It was time to get some tea and to check in at the hostel.
The next morning as i was leaving the hostel for a day of meandering and wandering, i met one of the German girls who i had shared a room with in Seattle, she had taken the same train journey as me 24 hours later. We headed off out to see the “Love Fest” parade. In San Fran this weekend there was Love Fest – Electronic/Rave/DJ music, and also a Blues Grass Festival, both free. We went to watch the parade, and it certainly made me feel old, despite being nr 12, loads of people were dressed for raving, the music was loud!!!! People were wearing varying degrees of clothing, and there was even a couple of blocks with only their shoes on! After we had lunch nr the hostel, we went our separate ways. I wandered off through China Town, up to Little Italy and then up Coit Tower.
Coit Tower was built from some money left to the city by a lady who had been rescued by fireman when she was 7 years old. She had wanted to become a fireman, but regulations would not let a female in, but she did become a mascot for the fireman, and also a fire volunteer. Some of her memories can be read at the tower, and there are some great murals. There is a fee to go up in the antiquated elevator, but on a clear day (like today) you get fantastic 360 degree views of the city and bay.
This was a day for meanderings, and it was great, but all the steps, and going up and down hills, did mean my knee was starting to ache.
My final day in San Fran, and i had set myself a challenge, to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and over to Sausalito, which is about 8 miles. The sun was out, and i did have my jacket as there was a bit of a breeze (prob could have done with a sweater though for the journey across the bridge, and for the ferry ride home). I also thought i might get up to Muir Woods National Monument to see the giant Redwoods, which would be another 10 miles as you would have to ride either back to Sausalito or to Tiburon to catch the ferry.
It was a great day for going for a ride. From the hostel i went down and caught the Cable Car from the corner of Union Square and Geary to Hyde Street – an experience that must be done in the city. I got the bike at the Cannery, and headed off along the waterfront, to Fort Mason – which was my first hill; my brother would call it a bump. I rode it, with a brief stop, i didn’t get off and push the bike. And then the route continues along the waterfront passed the beach to Fort Point – you could stop off and visit but i knew the climb ahead...you have to get up from sea level to the level of the road.....this is done over a distance of a few blocks, but with changing gears (unfortunately i managed to knock the chain off, so had to put it back on!!!) and a couple of rests, i did manage to ride the climb up. Others passed me, but i was determined to do it, and i was so pleased with myself!!!
It was a moment i had to pinch myself – i was riding across the Golden Gate Bridge. It was a great experience, when you reach the other side, you could just take pictures, and return by the route you came, but i was going to carry on. The Golden Gate bridge construction started in January 1933, and was opened for traffic in May 1937. There are loads of “fascinating” numerical facts, although for the bike ride the only fact is that it is 220ft above the mean high water (the height i had to climb) and the suspended bit (which i rode) was 1,966m.
The next short distance was the easiest part; it was all downhill back to sea level. The route then follows East Road into Sausalito, which has 1 final small hill to climb. I was given encouragement from drivers of a couple of cars who passed me. The descent down into Sausalito was good though. Sausalito is an up market harbour town, and there are no cheap cafe’s to get your food, but follow the signs to park up your bike (nr ferry terminal) and wander to find a cafe (unless you take your own lunch). After i had a great lunch, i headed off along the route to take me to Muir Woods, it was a great gentle ride, after a couple of miles i got to Bothin Marsh – a salt wetland, where i saw a few egrets – and then the path turns off to the Old Mill (which on the map is 14mile point) and i was less than 2 miles away, but my knee was starting to ache. I realised the easiest thing would be to turn round (also the shorter distance) and head back to Sausalito, which would mean that i would still do about 12 miles – not bad for me.
Getting back to the Ferry Terminal i joined the short queue for people and waited for 1 of the 2 ferry companies to turn up. The ticket i had was for 1 company, it was gone 3pm and they were not due in till 4.30pm, but the other ferry company let us board on their 3.50pm sailing, the only issue was that they would take us to the Ferry Terminal and not Pier 39, so it would mean a couple of miles to cycle to return the bike! The earlier sailing it was. I got chatting to some of my fellow passengers, who were from Canada, and interested to hear that i had recently been in Vancouver, but didn’t think that i would have been to their home town – Ottawa – they were pleased i had been and enjoyed it.
On returning the bike, i was worn out, and really didn’t fancy the long walk over the big hill of Hyde Street, and the Cable Car had a huge queue, so i thought i would try for the F Line Street Car – these street cars have come from all over the nation and the world. The street car took me within a block of the hostel. So i grabbed a bite to eat nr the hostel and went for a well earned rest.
The next day was moving day; i was heading to Fresno, Central California to stop with friends of my parents – a place to stop, chill out, catch up with myself, and just be.
No comments:
Post a Comment