Summary of time:
· Zion National Park
· Bryce National Park
· Geological wonders
· Sunshine and bracing winds.
· High altitudes
Handy hints –
§ Be content to take things as they come, don’t worry if running behind your schedule, it may mean you experience something new and different.
§ Embrace the weather, be prepared for anything.
§ If visiting National Parks find out the costs and compare it against the cost of the Annual National Park Fee $80 (Zion $25, Bryce $25, Capitol Reef $5, Arches $10, Canyonlands $10, Mesa Verde $10, Grand Canyon $25, Lake Mead $5 = $115 in 3 weeks). Individual park fees are normally 1 price for 5-7 days.
§ Arriving at National Parks go visit the visitors centre, talk to the rangers, get recommendations on what to see and do and what order to do it in. It will always depend on the length of time that you have and how much walking you want to do. Pick up the map and the current guide newspaper.
This would be a lot of driving, getting from California over to Utah, is a 500 mile drive. It also means going from sea level to 3,500 ft where my tour would really start. From citrus orchards to desert lands. The route was via Bakersfield, over the Sierra Mountain range, through the Mojave Desert, up I15 through Las Vegas and onto Utah. My drive through Las Vegas was certainly interesting, seeing all the lights from the hotels.
Arriving at St George in Utah i had crossed the time zone, and it was late. Driving from St George to Zion National Park, i was blown away by the geological formations, the colours of the rocks, it was so different to anything i’d seen before (except on telly or books), and it was awesome. I found a place to stop in Springdale, just outside the park.
It was the last couple of the season, so the shuttle buses were still running from the Visitors Centre. This was good, as there was a running commentary giving information about the history of the park. I learned much about Zion, for instance the lower plateau of Zion is the upper plateau of the Grand Canyon, and the upper plateau of Zion is the lower plateau of Bryce. So in effect i was starting in the middle. At Zion, you go along the valley floor, and climb up, but at both Bryce and Grand Canyon, you start from the top. Zion is on the edge of the Colorado Plateau.
The Navajo Sandstone is white to pale pink; the Kayenta Formation is more reddish in colour. Some of the lower levels of Sandstone and Formation are also reddish and brownish colour.
The area was discovered by the first Anglo in 1858, homesteads were settled in 1864, and people started to come and visit, paint, and relax in its environs from 1870’s. It became the Mukuntuweap National Monument in 1909, and this year celebrates a 100 years of being a Sanctuary. In 1916 Methodist Minister Frederick Fisher and some local boys explore the Canyon and name lots of features, many of them still remain named them today. Biblical names abound, Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, pulpit, altar, Angels Landing. With the local area settled by Mormons, there is also the name of a Mormon prophet nr Jacob.
The sun was shining, the sky was almost totally clear of clouds, and walking along the river, was just great. Despite being the weekend, it was not too busy, and there were plenty of people to make walks not so lonely. I took the shuttle up to the end of valley floor, to the Temple of Sinawava, following the Riverside Walk up to The Narrows. There is a path up through the Narrows, but part of it is actually the River, doing this walk you need to be properly equipped, either partial wetsuits or extra clothing and footwear. I then took the shuttle back, stopping at almost every stop either just to admire the views or to take a short walk. At Big Bend, you see the back of Angels Landing; if you’re lucky you can see walkers along the ridge, or climbers making their way up the rock face, or if you’re really lucky you might see a condor flying high...i saw all of them. Awesome what you see either looking up or even looking along the ground, where i saw lizards....and fortunately no snakes.
I then visited the Weeping Rock, a short hike and then to stand behind a curtain of water, the views were fantastic, especially with the sun shining through. There apparently is always water dripping down, although after snow melts there is more. From the Grotto stop you can set off up Angels Landing, it is a strenuous 4hr hike with a gain of 1,488ft with several switchbacks, and a narrow ridge, with chains to aid. Not one i wanted to do on my own.
I then stopped off at Zion Lodge, and took the easier walk along to the Lower Emerald Pool. There are 3 pools, well they’re not very big pools, but this walk i just visited the lower pool. The change in the leaves, in some advance, others just changing. Heading on the way there and back i saw a mother and 2 young mule deer, they have big ears, but still cute.
The sun was starting to set over the cliffs, so dramatic shadows crossed the opposing side of the Valley. My final stop was to the Court of the Patriarchs, these are the mountains of Abraham, Isaac and Joseph. Dramatic. Awesome.
The next day i had thought i would just head out on the East Pass, but decided to take a walk first. I took the shuttles (which are all run on propane) up to The Grotto; i then walked along the Kayenta Trail to the Middle Pool, and then hiked the short trail to the Upper Pool. Some people became familiar, as we passed each other, common thoughts on views, or encouragement exchanged, it was good to share.
Finishing the trail, i headed off out on the East Pass, this involves a switchback climb (where you can see the Great Arch), before heading into a 1.1 mile tunnel. This tunnel was actually built in the 1930’s.
Driving out on the East Pass, there were more dramatic rock formations.
Leaving Zion I9 took me along where i could see big canyons....wow. Heading up I89 i could start to see the higher formations that are part of Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. I found a place to stop in a small town, that seems to rely on tourists in the area, there were several motels to choose from, but with the end of the season some were closing up.
Driving over to Bryce the next morning, starting from an elevation of 6,600ft, the temperatures were dropping, and there was a slight wind. The forecast was expecting snow in a few days time.
Bryce is famous for Hoodoo’s; “this is a pillar of rock which is usually of fantastic shape, left by erosion. The intricate rock formations of the canyons have been a source of inspiration to all who have viewed them, from the early Native Americans who first occupied the region more than a thousand years ago to its most recent visitors. The landscape of Bryce Canyon sculpted it its walls and spires, couple with its ever changing light, creates a colourful and surreal environment.” (Bryce Canyon Leaflet)
Bryce Canyon was established as a National Monument in 1923, but did not become a National Park until 1928. It was established to preserve and protect outstanding scenic and scientific values, and is known for the bizarre rock spires called hoodoos.
The lowest point of Bryce is 6,620ft, and its highest is at Rainbow Point at 9,113ft. This was my starting point after the visitors centre. It is out of season, so no shuttle buses; therefore you can drive along the roads. The wind was bitter but the sun was shining, with clear skies and hardly any air pollution, so wrapped up warm, i got out the car at the various different viewpoints.
Rainbow & Yovimpa Points are at the southern end of the park, from where you get great views and with no visual problems i could see Navajo Mountain (the other side of Lake Powell, about 80 miles away) to the SE. There was just vast expanses of canyons between, the geology of it all were mind blowing. From this point, you do not see so many of the hoodoos or eroded rock formations, but you certainly get the idea of the vastness of this area, which goes down to the Grand Canyon. I did the smallest loop of walking at this point along which i saw Ponderosa Pine trees, as well as other firs, some suffering from the drought, others charred from fires; the other walks took you down into the canyons, certainly more than i was prepared to do for now.
The drive then took me back north; i stopped at all the view points, Black Birch Canyon, Ponderosa Canyon, Agua Canyon, Natural Bridge, Farview Point, Whiteman Bench, Swamp Canyon, before heading for lunch at the hotel. I got there before the two tour buses arrived, so food arrived fairly quickly, and it was good.
At all of these points there were various rock formations, the erosion that had occurred leaving beautiful scenes. At Natural Bridge, you got what it said, a natural bridge, but not one that you would walk across, it was really an arch, but the splendour of it.
After lunch it was off to see some more views from Paria View and Bryce Point. It was from here that you got the best overview of the grottos and hoodoos; they were just resplendent before you. Taking photos didn’t really give the true impression of standing there in front of them. From Bryce you can walk all along the rim north to Fairyland Point (5.2 miles – there are various view points along the way), and i think if the shuttle buses had been running, i would have been tempted to do it.
The next two viewpoints are Sunset and Sunrise Points. From these you can see the sun hitting the rock formations at the specific times. There is a walk from Sunset down in amongst the hoodoos dropping around 550ft, it’s a steep trail, i was sort of tempted. You could go from that trail and link onto the Queens Garden walk from Sunrise Point, which would mean walking back along the ridge. These were tempting, but i wasn’t sure my knee was really up to it, also no one there to encourage me along.
I decided that i would take the easier loop from Sunrise Point down to the Queens Garden, which drops only 320ft over a mile, at the end there is a rock named Queen Victoria (it is just a narrow spire), but the path still takes you through the hoodoos, the path cuts through some of them via arches. It was awesome to walk alongside them. I was almost tempted to keep walking back to the Navajo Loop, but when my knee started to hurt, i thought it was better to head back. At these lower levels, it was warm in the sun, sheltered from the winds, but as the afternoon was passing, the temperatures were dropping. Remembering that it’s the desert i was drinking plenty of water.
The weather was changing, snow was coming, due on Tuesday, and following advice the nicest way to go north and east was along the Scenic Byway 12, it’s a 124 mile route through diverse and rugged landscapes – sliprock canyons, red rock cliffs, pine and aspen forests, alpine mountains, quaint rural towns, and national & state parks. The road also reaches an elevation of 9,600 ft.
Driving the route was certainly dramatic, up and down valleys, through Canyons, and big distances between the few towns on this route. Part of this route the tarmac was laid as part of the works during the Great Depression in 1930’s. Prior to that the towns would only get mail once a month, so were more self-reliant. Before reaching Boulder, you climb “Haymaker Bench” and then drive “The Hogback”; which is a narrow ridge with steep drop-offs. The ridge is not much wider than the road, and it is not straight either! Stopping at the pullout having driven along it was certainly dramatic to see where i had been! Boulder is known as “the last frontier in Utah”, settled in 1889; it was the last town in the US to receive its mail by mule. The milk and cream carried by the mules on the way to Escalante often turned to butter on the rough road!
Leaving Boulder the road climbs Boulder Mountain and heads to Torrey. This part of the byway was not paved until 1985! You enter back into Dixie National Forest, which was also at the start of Byway 12, and with the autumn / winter weather the trees had dropped their leaves, and there was still evidence of previous snow falls. Stopping at the various viewpoints along the way, certainly gave dramatic views to look out over. I was also able to meet local residents on the road – cattle were crossing in front of me! Arriving at the highest point of the road, a girl named Marie from New York, had also stopped to take a picture of the elevation sign, so we took each other’s picture at standing at that point.
The road then descended down to Torrey, where i headed east on I24 to Capitol Reef National Park.
· Zion National Park
· Bryce National Park
· Geological wonders
· Sunshine and bracing winds.
· High altitudes
Handy hints –
§ Be content to take things as they come, don’t worry if running behind your schedule, it may mean you experience something new and different.
§ Embrace the weather, be prepared for anything.
§ If visiting National Parks find out the costs and compare it against the cost of the Annual National Park Fee $80 (Zion $25, Bryce $25, Capitol Reef $5, Arches $10, Canyonlands $10, Mesa Verde $10, Grand Canyon $25, Lake Mead $5 = $115 in 3 weeks). Individual park fees are normally 1 price for 5-7 days.
§ Arriving at National Parks go visit the visitors centre, talk to the rangers, get recommendations on what to see and do and what order to do it in. It will always depend on the length of time that you have and how much walking you want to do. Pick up the map and the current guide newspaper.
This would be a lot of driving, getting from California over to Utah, is a 500 mile drive. It also means going from sea level to 3,500 ft where my tour would really start. From citrus orchards to desert lands. The route was via Bakersfield, over the Sierra Mountain range, through the Mojave Desert, up I15 through Las Vegas and onto Utah. My drive through Las Vegas was certainly interesting, seeing all the lights from the hotels.
Arriving at St George in Utah i had crossed the time zone, and it was late. Driving from St George to Zion National Park, i was blown away by the geological formations, the colours of the rocks, it was so different to anything i’d seen before (except on telly or books), and it was awesome. I found a place to stop in Springdale, just outside the park.
It was the last couple of the season, so the shuttle buses were still running from the Visitors Centre. This was good, as there was a running commentary giving information about the history of the park. I learned much about Zion, for instance the lower plateau of Zion is the upper plateau of the Grand Canyon, and the upper plateau of Zion is the lower plateau of Bryce. So in effect i was starting in the middle. At Zion, you go along the valley floor, and climb up, but at both Bryce and Grand Canyon, you start from the top. Zion is on the edge of the Colorado Plateau.
The Navajo Sandstone is white to pale pink; the Kayenta Formation is more reddish in colour. Some of the lower levels of Sandstone and Formation are also reddish and brownish colour.
The area was discovered by the first Anglo in 1858, homesteads were settled in 1864, and people started to come and visit, paint, and relax in its environs from 1870’s. It became the Mukuntuweap National Monument in 1909, and this year celebrates a 100 years of being a Sanctuary. In 1916 Methodist Minister Frederick Fisher and some local boys explore the Canyon and name lots of features, many of them still remain named them today. Biblical names abound, Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, pulpit, altar, Angels Landing. With the local area settled by Mormons, there is also the name of a Mormon prophet nr Jacob.
The sun was shining, the sky was almost totally clear of clouds, and walking along the river, was just great. Despite being the weekend, it was not too busy, and there were plenty of people to make walks not so lonely. I took the shuttle up to the end of valley floor, to the Temple of Sinawava, following the Riverside Walk up to The Narrows. There is a path up through the Narrows, but part of it is actually the River, doing this walk you need to be properly equipped, either partial wetsuits or extra clothing and footwear. I then took the shuttle back, stopping at almost every stop either just to admire the views or to take a short walk. At Big Bend, you see the back of Angels Landing; if you’re lucky you can see walkers along the ridge, or climbers making their way up the rock face, or if you’re really lucky you might see a condor flying high...i saw all of them. Awesome what you see either looking up or even looking along the ground, where i saw lizards....and fortunately no snakes.
I then visited the Weeping Rock, a short hike and then to stand behind a curtain of water, the views were fantastic, especially with the sun shining through. There apparently is always water dripping down, although after snow melts there is more. From the Grotto stop you can set off up Angels Landing, it is a strenuous 4hr hike with a gain of 1,488ft with several switchbacks, and a narrow ridge, with chains to aid. Not one i wanted to do on my own.
I then stopped off at Zion Lodge, and took the easier walk along to the Lower Emerald Pool. There are 3 pools, well they’re not very big pools, but this walk i just visited the lower pool. The change in the leaves, in some advance, others just changing. Heading on the way there and back i saw a mother and 2 young mule deer, they have big ears, but still cute.
The sun was starting to set over the cliffs, so dramatic shadows crossed the opposing side of the Valley. My final stop was to the Court of the Patriarchs, these are the mountains of Abraham, Isaac and Joseph. Dramatic. Awesome.
The next day i had thought i would just head out on the East Pass, but decided to take a walk first. I took the shuttles (which are all run on propane) up to The Grotto; i then walked along the Kayenta Trail to the Middle Pool, and then hiked the short trail to the Upper Pool. Some people became familiar, as we passed each other, common thoughts on views, or encouragement exchanged, it was good to share.
Finishing the trail, i headed off out on the East Pass, this involves a switchback climb (where you can see the Great Arch), before heading into a 1.1 mile tunnel. This tunnel was actually built in the 1930’s.
Driving out on the East Pass, there were more dramatic rock formations.
Leaving Zion I9 took me along where i could see big canyons....wow. Heading up I89 i could start to see the higher formations that are part of Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. I found a place to stop in a small town, that seems to rely on tourists in the area, there were several motels to choose from, but with the end of the season some were closing up.
Driving over to Bryce the next morning, starting from an elevation of 6,600ft, the temperatures were dropping, and there was a slight wind. The forecast was expecting snow in a few days time.
Bryce is famous for Hoodoo’s; “this is a pillar of rock which is usually of fantastic shape, left by erosion. The intricate rock formations of the canyons have been a source of inspiration to all who have viewed them, from the early Native Americans who first occupied the region more than a thousand years ago to its most recent visitors. The landscape of Bryce Canyon sculpted it its walls and spires, couple with its ever changing light, creates a colourful and surreal environment.” (Bryce Canyon Leaflet)
Bryce Canyon was established as a National Monument in 1923, but did not become a National Park until 1928. It was established to preserve and protect outstanding scenic and scientific values, and is known for the bizarre rock spires called hoodoos.
The lowest point of Bryce is 6,620ft, and its highest is at Rainbow Point at 9,113ft. This was my starting point after the visitors centre. It is out of season, so no shuttle buses; therefore you can drive along the roads. The wind was bitter but the sun was shining, with clear skies and hardly any air pollution, so wrapped up warm, i got out the car at the various different viewpoints.
Rainbow & Yovimpa Points are at the southern end of the park, from where you get great views and with no visual problems i could see Navajo Mountain (the other side of Lake Powell, about 80 miles away) to the SE. There was just vast expanses of canyons between, the geology of it all were mind blowing. From this point, you do not see so many of the hoodoos or eroded rock formations, but you certainly get the idea of the vastness of this area, which goes down to the Grand Canyon. I did the smallest loop of walking at this point along which i saw Ponderosa Pine trees, as well as other firs, some suffering from the drought, others charred from fires; the other walks took you down into the canyons, certainly more than i was prepared to do for now.
The drive then took me back north; i stopped at all the view points, Black Birch Canyon, Ponderosa Canyon, Agua Canyon, Natural Bridge, Farview Point, Whiteman Bench, Swamp Canyon, before heading for lunch at the hotel. I got there before the two tour buses arrived, so food arrived fairly quickly, and it was good.
At all of these points there were various rock formations, the erosion that had occurred leaving beautiful scenes. At Natural Bridge, you got what it said, a natural bridge, but not one that you would walk across, it was really an arch, but the splendour of it.
After lunch it was off to see some more views from Paria View and Bryce Point. It was from here that you got the best overview of the grottos and hoodoos; they were just resplendent before you. Taking photos didn’t really give the true impression of standing there in front of them. From Bryce you can walk all along the rim north to Fairyland Point (5.2 miles – there are various view points along the way), and i think if the shuttle buses had been running, i would have been tempted to do it.
The next two viewpoints are Sunset and Sunrise Points. From these you can see the sun hitting the rock formations at the specific times. There is a walk from Sunset down in amongst the hoodoos dropping around 550ft, it’s a steep trail, i was sort of tempted. You could go from that trail and link onto the Queens Garden walk from Sunrise Point, which would mean walking back along the ridge. These were tempting, but i wasn’t sure my knee was really up to it, also no one there to encourage me along.
I decided that i would take the easier loop from Sunrise Point down to the Queens Garden, which drops only 320ft over a mile, at the end there is a rock named Queen Victoria (it is just a narrow spire), but the path still takes you through the hoodoos, the path cuts through some of them via arches. It was awesome to walk alongside them. I was almost tempted to keep walking back to the Navajo Loop, but when my knee started to hurt, i thought it was better to head back. At these lower levels, it was warm in the sun, sheltered from the winds, but as the afternoon was passing, the temperatures were dropping. Remembering that it’s the desert i was drinking plenty of water.
The weather was changing, snow was coming, due on Tuesday, and following advice the nicest way to go north and east was along the Scenic Byway 12, it’s a 124 mile route through diverse and rugged landscapes – sliprock canyons, red rock cliffs, pine and aspen forests, alpine mountains, quaint rural towns, and national & state parks. The road also reaches an elevation of 9,600 ft.
Driving the route was certainly dramatic, up and down valleys, through Canyons, and big distances between the few towns on this route. Part of this route the tarmac was laid as part of the works during the Great Depression in 1930’s. Prior to that the towns would only get mail once a month, so were more self-reliant. Before reaching Boulder, you climb “Haymaker Bench” and then drive “The Hogback”; which is a narrow ridge with steep drop-offs. The ridge is not much wider than the road, and it is not straight either! Stopping at the pullout having driven along it was certainly dramatic to see where i had been! Boulder is known as “the last frontier in Utah”, settled in 1889; it was the last town in the US to receive its mail by mule. The milk and cream carried by the mules on the way to Escalante often turned to butter on the rough road!
Leaving Boulder the road climbs Boulder Mountain and heads to Torrey. This part of the byway was not paved until 1985! You enter back into Dixie National Forest, which was also at the start of Byway 12, and with the autumn / winter weather the trees had dropped their leaves, and there was still evidence of previous snow falls. Stopping at the various viewpoints along the way, certainly gave dramatic views to look out over. I was also able to meet local residents on the road – cattle were crossing in front of me! Arriving at the highest point of the road, a girl named Marie from New York, had also stopped to take a picture of the elevation sign, so we took each other’s picture at standing at that point.
The road then descended down to Torrey, where i headed east on I24 to Capitol Reef National Park.
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