Summary of time:
· Mountains, views.
· Overcast weather
· Go up the highest mountain in the North East US
· Vermont – State Capital is small.
· Rolling farmland
· Visit to a cheese factory / creamery, and a famous ice cream co
Handy hints –
§ Get localised maps, hints of things to go and do or see.
§ Have your camera ready.
§ Be prepared for all types of weather.
§ Find space to relax and enjoy the views, space and peacefulness.
There were clouds, but they were scattered. So the plan was to go up Mt Washington, but i didn’t fancy driving up the auto road, as well as try to see the view.....and i decided that the cost of the Cog Railway was too much....so i was going to take the guided tour up the auto road. As i got to the right place there was no clouds at the top, but whilst waiting for the next trip, they did arrive.
When the trip started we were told that there would be clouds, and the winds were picking up. The guide was giving us information about the road, and about the community that actually lived at the top of the mountain. Parts of the road are not tarmac, because it is a private road, and the extreme conditions in winter, it is left without tarmac, to preserve it. At times the road is steep, and very close to the edge, i was so glad i wasn’t driving that up on my own! The trees as we climb become more firs as they can cope with the conditions, but as we get higher, they become smaller, and stripped on one side from the strong winds that can move around. As we near the top there are no trees, and the plant life is only what can survive in a Tundra Setting (this is normally only seen in northern parts of Canada and Alaska). As we got to the top there was no view. We had an hour, which to look around the buildings, see the museums, and to stand at the top.
The auto road was first opened in 1861, and is America’s oldest manmade attraction. In the early days it was horse and carriage that took the tourist’s up. There was a hostel, weather scientists, a small community that even produced its own paper, at one point even producing it twice a day. It would show the names of the visitors. There is still a scientific group of people who live at the top all year round. The paper and various other buildings were destroyed in a fire. It was certainly fascinating to think about the pioneering spirit of those people who lived there right at the beginning.
The wind was strong up there, we found out later the average speeds were about 46 mph, and the visibility moved quickly from 50 yds to 500 yds. It was a real experience. At the top the cog train was ready to leave at the same time as we were, and as we got part way down, we could see it going down. The train runs on bio fuel, with just the engine and one carriage, and at the steepest point the people at the back of the carriage can be 11ft higher than the person at the front.
Back down at the bottom, and time to see more of this area, heading north, and then west, and then south.....i was taking a route around the edge of the park. I had hoped to try and see the moose, so i went along route 93 again, but as i got to that part, the rain set in, but that just gave the scenery a different look, and then east again along the Kancamagus Pass, but this time is was an opportunity to go along Bear Mountain Pass before heading back to North Conway. I knew that if i went to the motel, i probably wouldn’t go back out again. So heading into North Conway i spot May Kelly’s, an Irish Bar and Restaurant. I know that it is easy to find Irish bars everywhere, but this felt different, and actually when i went it in, it was. I was made to feel very welcome, and they had live Irish music in the bar, and it didn’t matter i was on my own, and i read my book whilst eating. The food was great, the right size portion, and it was real friendly. The owners were from Louth in Ireland, emigrating about 15 years ago.
The next day all i wanted to do was to not do anything....i felt like i should be doing something, but i wanted a no brainer day...so i did. Dinner had to be May Kelly’s, this time it was proper Shepherd’s Pie (made with Lamb mince), and once again great service, i was made to feel very welcome and the staff were owners.
It’s moving day, but i’m determined to take the Conway Train up the notch. The weather is in my favour, the sun is shining, so should mean that the views will be great. It’s a 5 hours trip (actually an hour of that is spent at the top of the notch so you can have lunch and stretch your legs), on a diesel train, with vintage carriages, going along the valley from North Conway and then up the side of the valley up towards Crawford Notch (occasionally it goes a bit further to Fabyan, passing the Mount Washington Hotel (often seen in photos with Mt Washington behind it)). Having packed up, it was down to the station for my ticket...there were some anoraks around (not literally – real train nuts); there was a model railway display as well. There were quite a few people around getting tickets – many for the shorter 2 journeys on offer (down the valley to Conway (1hr) or up the line to Bartlett (1 ¾ hr)). Getting on the train in Coach class, i opted for the open carriage, meant you could really lean out, but it was wooden seats facing out of the carriage – the other coach class coach had slightly better seats (Reversible – so can be facing the way you are going in both directions) but windows. Throughout the whole journey up and down, there was a running commentary, and although the volume of the speakers was up, due to no windows, and therefore all the noise of the train, it was hard to hear all the great historical information that was given. There were some places that gave really great views, but a lot of the journey the trees blocked out some of the views (reminds me of large parts of the Ffestiniogg Railway trip (top part)). The 2 hour journey really didn’t feel that long in either direction. Having blocked views of the distance meant that looked at stuff closer too, waterfalls, homes (or places homes used to be). The railway had a life not just for carrying people which it did for 80ish years(1875 to 1958), but for 110 years it carried lumber down the valley from various places up the valleys off the Notch. The last train was in 1984. In 1995 the Conway Scenic Railway started running the Seasonal passenger trains.
Not only does the line go up more than 1300 feet, but it also crosses 2 gorges, as well as crossing Saco River on several occasions. Some communities or homes at one point relied on the railway for its communication and transport, they now do not exist for different reasons – logging communities no longer required, homes burnt.
Getting back to the start, it was time to head off to Vermont....not really sure where i was going to end up, so headed out of the White Mountain on a North West route, which would get me into Vermont. Having fuelled up in Littleton, i didn’t want to take the main interstate, but take the smaller roads, and also trying to see all these places that had English place names, i headed off to Lancaster, before going into Vermont. Its interesting driving through all of these places, small places in UK are big here or Vis versa or those places by the sea are way in land....sometimes a place is in several different states as well.
Driving on west from Lancaster, part of my thought was where to stop, in this part of Vermont, there are not so many motels...plenty of campsites...so it was really not only looking at where going, but also somewhere to stop, it was not just finding a motel, but somewhere it felt right to stop. St Johnsbury was a reasonably big town, but somehow it didn’t feel right to stop, so i carried on, travelling along Route 2, seeing some lovely small villages, farming countryside, but it was to Montpelier (the state capital) that i eventually stopped at. A place to rest my head for a couple of nights.
So what to do today, the sun is trying to shine, a few too many clouds...there is a possibility of rain this morning....oh well. Off to tourist information, see what they can suggest. Really helpful, gave suggestion of a couple of state parks where could go for some short walks around a lake, or drive up and then walk up to summit of “Owls Head”. Also Cabot Creamery – cheese factory....free samples. Also there is the State House, Montpelier (pronounced Mont-peel-yer) is the capital of Vermont, and it looks more like a small town though. The State House has a Gold Dome on it. Drove on down into the capital, and drove through it....wasn’t prepared to pay for parking, and there didn’t seem anything i really wanted to stop for anyway, so headed back east on route 22 towards St Johnsbury, to Owls head and Cabot. There were a few roads north to Cabot, and wasn’t sure which would have the sign to the Creamery, and between them heading south was the road to Owls Head, so whichever i saw the sign for first i would go to.
It was the creamery. For $2 you can take a tour – a video of the history, and see production in progress. Cabot Creamery is a co-operative of local Vermont farmers, start about 100 years ago, by a few farmers who wanted to pool resources and get better deals, and have more options...more than just selling milk, next chain in link, produce cheese (and now yoghurt, sour cream, cottage cheese, dips). The co-operative grew, buying out other creameries/co-operatives, and grew to 600 farmers. Some of these farmers are no longer part of the process, sold up /merged with other farms. Part of the policy is about community, and investing in the community, as well as producing good quality stuff from local produce. There are now a couple of sites, but Cabot is the original. In the shop, there are bowls with samples of all the different types (strong cheddar, Really strong cheddar, premium cheddar, two colour cheddar, cheddar with horseradish, cheddar with peppers, cheddar with chilli and lime, cheddar with ?, and a couple more i can’t remember), and then there are the dips (about 5 flavours). Oh not having a fridge to buy cheese. What about Popcorn with cheese? They have containers of a cheese powder, which goes great with popcorn...don’t scorn before you try it...i couldn’t get enough, but had to resist buying a bag (they would sell you it ready to eat). But i bought lunch, biscuits, cheese portions and Greek yoghurt.
Back in the car, i didn’t want to go back the way i came so i drove on, there were 2 options, one road would get me back to 22 quicker, but there is no road number, so no guarantee i would find it....and i didn’t so it was the long route, but no worries. It was great seeing the rolling hills of a farming community, reminded me a bit of Ireland. Eventually arriving back on 22, it was then south a few miles to owls head, i missed the turning, and found the second park (around the lake at Kettle’s Pond) but i really fancied the mountain top, so i turned round and found the track....at the top it was a short walk up to the top. Lunch and a book, great way to chill out for a few hours, and what amazing views. I could see the lake (Kettles Pond) that I might walk round. In the end i didn’t, wanted to try and catch my parents and speak to them, as not had a chance for several days. Got back to the motel, and my parents were out for dinner – didn’t get back till well after 10 UK time, but great to chat to them.
Time to pack up and move again. No sweat. The sun is shining, not too hot (early 80’s F or high 20’s C), with a few clouds in the sky. The agenda is Ben and Jerry’s and then off on a drive and see where i end up. Ben and Jerry’s base is about 10 miles west of Montpelier, so onto the highway (and roadwork’s!), but soon i’m pulling off, and breakfast was needed (i know it was only around 10 but i was hungry). Found a great diner on the edge of Waterbury – pancakes with bacon, egg and cheese inside – x 2, and the bottomless coffee. Great full up (but there’s always room for ice cream). A couple of minutes up the road, and for a fee of $3 per adult you get a 30 mins tour of the factory (video, glimpse of production room – with talk, and a sample of ice cream). Today was a production day so we got to see the plant in action. The walls up to the video room have all been painted with cows in field, the milking parlour, etc, and as we go up, the “cows are mooing”! It was great to learn the history, and the policies of Ben and Jerry’s...they have a great social policy of giving back to the community partly through an annual free cone day and also through partnerships. When they were going international they came to UK first, and because of how well it went there, they then went worldwide!
Production was Marzipan Swirl (not sure of specific name) and Apple Pie Ice Creams. At this factory they produce 2 different types of ice-cream at a time. There are a couple of other factories that only produce Ben and Jerry’s but then some of the ice cream is produced at other Unilever factories. And finally, the tasting ....it was chocolate mint (i had hoped it might have been apple pie!). Then the shop.....oooohhhh couldn’t buy ice cream no place to store it....dddoooohhh
So it was back in the car, get the map out and see which way to head, north and west up to St Albans. One of the roads showed that it’s not open in winter what would that be like. It was in ...... a big ski area (could tell by all ski shops, and lodges, etc) and big signs on the road saying limited weight and not open in winter, with gates (open) on the road. The road narrowed and climbed winding its way up the pass by Mt Mansfield through Smugglers Notch. It got very narrow in places, no markings for the centre of the road, well in some places it wasn’t really wide enough for 2 cars to pass. At the highest point of the pass, a lot of cars in the parking area, so obviously in summer it’s great for walking and rock climbing (some big rock faces).
It’s great having a rough idea where you’re going and just driving along the roads (i do love it), enjoying the scenery and every so often checking the map for the next road number. From St Albans (didn’t actually go into the town) it was south on route 7 to Burlington (the City – but not the capital). Previously i thought i would stop here for a couple of days.....but on driving into the city, although the houses etc looked really nice, i had a really uncomfortable feeling...didn’t help getting shouted at by a driver for having not indicated lane change ! I’d seen loads of others not indicate. Route 7 took me right through Burlington and out through the retail/business park area – where the motels were, and didn’t see anything i liked so carried on it was only around 2 ish anyway. I fancied a place where there was a pool, a place may be with a spa to chill out in for a couple of days, actually didn’t feel like city stuff...get to do that in Chicago next...fancied countryside and small town places (that’s more me anyway). Carried on south, passing through various villages, town of Middlebury – there’s a big school/college here – and eventually passed through a small town called Brandon, as i was driving through, i felt a “home” feeling, it was the sort of place i would like to live in – bizarre. Travelling a few miles on, just outside the town, there was a motel, with pool and hot tub, and vacancy. I suddenly turned in. Great room for 2 nights, no worries, i could chill out here for the next day. So having settled in my room, it was off to the pool, catch a few rays, and some cross stitch done (getting a thing done for some friends), and of course a dip in the pool....soon a couple of hours had passed, so down into town to grab a Chinese take away and back to the room to have dinner in front of the telly....definitely a relaxing time.
· Mountains, views.
· Overcast weather
· Go up the highest mountain in the North East US
· Vermont – State Capital is small.
· Rolling farmland
· Visit to a cheese factory / creamery, and a famous ice cream co
Handy hints –
§ Get localised maps, hints of things to go and do or see.
§ Have your camera ready.
§ Be prepared for all types of weather.
§ Find space to relax and enjoy the views, space and peacefulness.
There were clouds, but they were scattered. So the plan was to go up Mt Washington, but i didn’t fancy driving up the auto road, as well as try to see the view.....and i decided that the cost of the Cog Railway was too much....so i was going to take the guided tour up the auto road. As i got to the right place there was no clouds at the top, but whilst waiting for the next trip, they did arrive.
When the trip started we were told that there would be clouds, and the winds were picking up. The guide was giving us information about the road, and about the community that actually lived at the top of the mountain. Parts of the road are not tarmac, because it is a private road, and the extreme conditions in winter, it is left without tarmac, to preserve it. At times the road is steep, and very close to the edge, i was so glad i wasn’t driving that up on my own! The trees as we climb become more firs as they can cope with the conditions, but as we get higher, they become smaller, and stripped on one side from the strong winds that can move around. As we near the top there are no trees, and the plant life is only what can survive in a Tundra Setting (this is normally only seen in northern parts of Canada and Alaska). As we got to the top there was no view. We had an hour, which to look around the buildings, see the museums, and to stand at the top.
The auto road was first opened in 1861, and is America’s oldest manmade attraction. In the early days it was horse and carriage that took the tourist’s up. There was a hostel, weather scientists, a small community that even produced its own paper, at one point even producing it twice a day. It would show the names of the visitors. There is still a scientific group of people who live at the top all year round. The paper and various other buildings were destroyed in a fire. It was certainly fascinating to think about the pioneering spirit of those people who lived there right at the beginning.
The wind was strong up there, we found out later the average speeds were about 46 mph, and the visibility moved quickly from 50 yds to 500 yds. It was a real experience. At the top the cog train was ready to leave at the same time as we were, and as we got part way down, we could see it going down. The train runs on bio fuel, with just the engine and one carriage, and at the steepest point the people at the back of the carriage can be 11ft higher than the person at the front.
Back down at the bottom, and time to see more of this area, heading north, and then west, and then south.....i was taking a route around the edge of the park. I had hoped to try and see the moose, so i went along route 93 again, but as i got to that part, the rain set in, but that just gave the scenery a different look, and then east again along the Kancamagus Pass, but this time is was an opportunity to go along Bear Mountain Pass before heading back to North Conway. I knew that if i went to the motel, i probably wouldn’t go back out again. So heading into North Conway i spot May Kelly’s, an Irish Bar and Restaurant. I know that it is easy to find Irish bars everywhere, but this felt different, and actually when i went it in, it was. I was made to feel very welcome, and they had live Irish music in the bar, and it didn’t matter i was on my own, and i read my book whilst eating. The food was great, the right size portion, and it was real friendly. The owners were from Louth in Ireland, emigrating about 15 years ago.
The next day all i wanted to do was to not do anything....i felt like i should be doing something, but i wanted a no brainer day...so i did. Dinner had to be May Kelly’s, this time it was proper Shepherd’s Pie (made with Lamb mince), and once again great service, i was made to feel very welcome and the staff were owners.
It’s moving day, but i’m determined to take the Conway Train up the notch. The weather is in my favour, the sun is shining, so should mean that the views will be great. It’s a 5 hours trip (actually an hour of that is spent at the top of the notch so you can have lunch and stretch your legs), on a diesel train, with vintage carriages, going along the valley from North Conway and then up the side of the valley up towards Crawford Notch (occasionally it goes a bit further to Fabyan, passing the Mount Washington Hotel (often seen in photos with Mt Washington behind it)). Having packed up, it was down to the station for my ticket...there were some anoraks around (not literally – real train nuts); there was a model railway display as well. There were quite a few people around getting tickets – many for the shorter 2 journeys on offer (down the valley to Conway (1hr) or up the line to Bartlett (1 ¾ hr)). Getting on the train in Coach class, i opted for the open carriage, meant you could really lean out, but it was wooden seats facing out of the carriage – the other coach class coach had slightly better seats (Reversible – so can be facing the way you are going in both directions) but windows. Throughout the whole journey up and down, there was a running commentary, and although the volume of the speakers was up, due to no windows, and therefore all the noise of the train, it was hard to hear all the great historical information that was given. There were some places that gave really great views, but a lot of the journey the trees blocked out some of the views (reminds me of large parts of the Ffestiniogg Railway trip (top part)). The 2 hour journey really didn’t feel that long in either direction. Having blocked views of the distance meant that looked at stuff closer too, waterfalls, homes (or places homes used to be). The railway had a life not just for carrying people which it did for 80ish years(1875 to 1958), but for 110 years it carried lumber down the valley from various places up the valleys off the Notch. The last train was in 1984. In 1995 the Conway Scenic Railway started running the Seasonal passenger trains.
Not only does the line go up more than 1300 feet, but it also crosses 2 gorges, as well as crossing Saco River on several occasions. Some communities or homes at one point relied on the railway for its communication and transport, they now do not exist for different reasons – logging communities no longer required, homes burnt.
Getting back to the start, it was time to head off to Vermont....not really sure where i was going to end up, so headed out of the White Mountain on a North West route, which would get me into Vermont. Having fuelled up in Littleton, i didn’t want to take the main interstate, but take the smaller roads, and also trying to see all these places that had English place names, i headed off to Lancaster, before going into Vermont. Its interesting driving through all of these places, small places in UK are big here or Vis versa or those places by the sea are way in land....sometimes a place is in several different states as well.
Driving on west from Lancaster, part of my thought was where to stop, in this part of Vermont, there are not so many motels...plenty of campsites...so it was really not only looking at where going, but also somewhere to stop, it was not just finding a motel, but somewhere it felt right to stop. St Johnsbury was a reasonably big town, but somehow it didn’t feel right to stop, so i carried on, travelling along Route 2, seeing some lovely small villages, farming countryside, but it was to Montpelier (the state capital) that i eventually stopped at. A place to rest my head for a couple of nights.
So what to do today, the sun is trying to shine, a few too many clouds...there is a possibility of rain this morning....oh well. Off to tourist information, see what they can suggest. Really helpful, gave suggestion of a couple of state parks where could go for some short walks around a lake, or drive up and then walk up to summit of “Owls Head”. Also Cabot Creamery – cheese factory....free samples. Also there is the State House, Montpelier (pronounced Mont-peel-yer) is the capital of Vermont, and it looks more like a small town though. The State House has a Gold Dome on it. Drove on down into the capital, and drove through it....wasn’t prepared to pay for parking, and there didn’t seem anything i really wanted to stop for anyway, so headed back east on route 22 towards St Johnsbury, to Owls head and Cabot. There were a few roads north to Cabot, and wasn’t sure which would have the sign to the Creamery, and between them heading south was the road to Owls Head, so whichever i saw the sign for first i would go to.
It was the creamery. For $2 you can take a tour – a video of the history, and see production in progress. Cabot Creamery is a co-operative of local Vermont farmers, start about 100 years ago, by a few farmers who wanted to pool resources and get better deals, and have more options...more than just selling milk, next chain in link, produce cheese (and now yoghurt, sour cream, cottage cheese, dips). The co-operative grew, buying out other creameries/co-operatives, and grew to 600 farmers. Some of these farmers are no longer part of the process, sold up /merged with other farms. Part of the policy is about community, and investing in the community, as well as producing good quality stuff from local produce. There are now a couple of sites, but Cabot is the original. In the shop, there are bowls with samples of all the different types (strong cheddar, Really strong cheddar, premium cheddar, two colour cheddar, cheddar with horseradish, cheddar with peppers, cheddar with chilli and lime, cheddar with ?, and a couple more i can’t remember), and then there are the dips (about 5 flavours). Oh not having a fridge to buy cheese. What about Popcorn with cheese? They have containers of a cheese powder, which goes great with popcorn...don’t scorn before you try it...i couldn’t get enough, but had to resist buying a bag (they would sell you it ready to eat). But i bought lunch, biscuits, cheese portions and Greek yoghurt.
Back in the car, i didn’t want to go back the way i came so i drove on, there were 2 options, one road would get me back to 22 quicker, but there is no road number, so no guarantee i would find it....and i didn’t so it was the long route, but no worries. It was great seeing the rolling hills of a farming community, reminded me a bit of Ireland. Eventually arriving back on 22, it was then south a few miles to owls head, i missed the turning, and found the second park (around the lake at Kettle’s Pond) but i really fancied the mountain top, so i turned round and found the track....at the top it was a short walk up to the top. Lunch and a book, great way to chill out for a few hours, and what amazing views. I could see the lake (Kettles Pond) that I might walk round. In the end i didn’t, wanted to try and catch my parents and speak to them, as not had a chance for several days. Got back to the motel, and my parents were out for dinner – didn’t get back till well after 10 UK time, but great to chat to them.
Time to pack up and move again. No sweat. The sun is shining, not too hot (early 80’s F or high 20’s C), with a few clouds in the sky. The agenda is Ben and Jerry’s and then off on a drive and see where i end up. Ben and Jerry’s base is about 10 miles west of Montpelier, so onto the highway (and roadwork’s!), but soon i’m pulling off, and breakfast was needed (i know it was only around 10 but i was hungry). Found a great diner on the edge of Waterbury – pancakes with bacon, egg and cheese inside – x 2, and the bottomless coffee. Great full up (but there’s always room for ice cream). A couple of minutes up the road, and for a fee of $3 per adult you get a 30 mins tour of the factory (video, glimpse of production room – with talk, and a sample of ice cream). Today was a production day so we got to see the plant in action. The walls up to the video room have all been painted with cows in field, the milking parlour, etc, and as we go up, the “cows are mooing”! It was great to learn the history, and the policies of Ben and Jerry’s...they have a great social policy of giving back to the community partly through an annual free cone day and also through partnerships. When they were going international they came to UK first, and because of how well it went there, they then went worldwide!
Production was Marzipan Swirl (not sure of specific name) and Apple Pie Ice Creams. At this factory they produce 2 different types of ice-cream at a time. There are a couple of other factories that only produce Ben and Jerry’s but then some of the ice cream is produced at other Unilever factories. And finally, the tasting ....it was chocolate mint (i had hoped it might have been apple pie!). Then the shop.....oooohhhh couldn’t buy ice cream no place to store it....dddoooohhh
So it was back in the car, get the map out and see which way to head, north and west up to St Albans. One of the roads showed that it’s not open in winter what would that be like. It was in ...... a big ski area (could tell by all ski shops, and lodges, etc) and big signs on the road saying limited weight and not open in winter, with gates (open) on the road. The road narrowed and climbed winding its way up the pass by Mt Mansfield through Smugglers Notch. It got very narrow in places, no markings for the centre of the road, well in some places it wasn’t really wide enough for 2 cars to pass. At the highest point of the pass, a lot of cars in the parking area, so obviously in summer it’s great for walking and rock climbing (some big rock faces).
It’s great having a rough idea where you’re going and just driving along the roads (i do love it), enjoying the scenery and every so often checking the map for the next road number. From St Albans (didn’t actually go into the town) it was south on route 7 to Burlington (the City – but not the capital). Previously i thought i would stop here for a couple of days.....but on driving into the city, although the houses etc looked really nice, i had a really uncomfortable feeling...didn’t help getting shouted at by a driver for having not indicated lane change ! I’d seen loads of others not indicate. Route 7 took me right through Burlington and out through the retail/business park area – where the motels were, and didn’t see anything i liked so carried on it was only around 2 ish anyway. I fancied a place where there was a pool, a place may be with a spa to chill out in for a couple of days, actually didn’t feel like city stuff...get to do that in Chicago next...fancied countryside and small town places (that’s more me anyway). Carried on south, passing through various villages, town of Middlebury – there’s a big school/college here – and eventually passed through a small town called Brandon, as i was driving through, i felt a “home” feeling, it was the sort of place i would like to live in – bizarre. Travelling a few miles on, just outside the town, there was a motel, with pool and hot tub, and vacancy. I suddenly turned in. Great room for 2 nights, no worries, i could chill out here for the next day. So having settled in my room, it was off to the pool, catch a few rays, and some cross stitch done (getting a thing done for some friends), and of course a dip in the pool....soon a couple of hours had passed, so down into town to grab a Chinese take away and back to the room to have dinner in front of the telly....definitely a relaxing time.
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