Friday, 4 September 2009

Road Trip Acadia National Park, Maine















Summary of time:
· Shorelines, Lakes and Mountains
· Mixed weather

Handy hints –
§ Get localised maps, hints of things to go and do or see.
§ Have your camera ready, and be prepared to change direction.
§ Be prepared for all types of weather, as it can change several times in a day!
§ Find space to relax and enjoy the views, space and peacefulness.

It was then time to head off up the coast to Mount Desert Island, it has New England’s only National Park (Acadia) and the highest headland on the entire Atlantic Coast north of Rio De Janeiro, but the island is only 15 by 12 miles in size! At the end of the 19th Century some of America’s wealthiest families had built large expansive estates in/near Bar Harbor (inc Rockefellers, Pulitzers, Fords). Some of these families also helped set up the organisation that would create what is Acadia National Park, the first national park that was donated by private citizens. In 1947 unfortunately a fire destroyed “Millionaires Row”, and put an end to the island’s grand resort era. This has now changed and many people of all types come and enjoy the natural beauty....as well as the wildlife, there are many trips for sea fishing, whale, puffin and seal watching trips, as well as walking, climbing, cycling routes around the island.
As it was still relatively early, i decided to do one of the National Scenic Byways, a bit further east, but still included part of Acadia National Park – Schoodic Point. The Scenic Byway for the first part was not really much different to some of the other peninsulas but having passed Winter Harbour, the road was right down by the water, and with the sea mist limiting the views, gave the coast line a dramatic twist. Schoodic Peninsula has granite headlands, rocky beaches and spruce fir forests, which is the same as on Mount Desert Island, just more secluded, as people don’t tend to visit this area. They have the road to be one way for about 6 miles, which means it is easier for stopping to take pictures, and admire the views.
The actual point has dark diabase dikes (black/dark rock) that cut through the pink granite ledges. It is a dramatic point, large waves crashing against these ledges/rocks is awesome to watch, and gives you an understanding of the power and danger of the sea. I sat here for ages, fascinated by the crashing waves, and also trying to predict which of the waves would make the most dramatic splashes (and try to catch them on the camera at the high points, i managed a few).
It was time to head west and onto Mt Desert Island. Not knowing my route or when i would be anywhere, i’m not booked into anywhere so it is always a case of turn up and see what’s available. Stopping at the main info point before crossing onto the island, gave me information, maps, and a couple of suggestions. Also information on the predicted weather forecast for the next couple of days.
Sunday was not due to be a particularly clear day....the mist was close to shore and in places visibility was only about 250 yds. So starting the day on a good breakfast is always good....
2 sausages, 2 bacon, 2 eggs, fried potatoes, NO baked beans, 2 slices of French toast (1/2” thick), 2 Pancakes, mushrooms, 2 pieces of toast, and bottomless cup of coffee
Well, it was more like brunch if not lunchtime, and i was definitely full all day! So i headed off towards the National Park area, and paid my fee. In the park there is a large loop, of which ¾ is one way. There is also a road to take you up Cadillac Mountain.
As there would be no view on top of the mountain, i decided to follow the loop round, and take one of the walks along the coast. Following the road, you come across Sand Beach, which is Acadia’s longest beach, and i parked here, plenty of space as not many people are on the beach. From the car park, you take the path heading south, sort of alongside the main road, but also meandering through the trees. Following the path there are several places you can walk out onto the rocks / shoreline. Seeing the crashing waves is awesome. Having a much restricted view means that you look at those things much closer, the formation of the rocks, cliffs, small bays, the trees, flora, fauna...and if you’re lucky some of the wildlife.
The path takes you onto Thunder Hole, which is where the Atlantic waves crash into a narrow chasm, and due to the worn away rock, if you are there at the right time in the tide flow, the force of the crashing waves creates a thundering boom, and those stood on along the chasm get extremely wet. I had just missed the optimal time only by 15/20 mins.
Continuing south, through the woods, i headed down towards Otter Cliffs, but due to the closeness of the mist/fog it wasn’t really the time to sit on the rocks and ocean watch, so i turned round back the couple of miles, taking many photos of the mist in the trees. It was really mist as the air was damp, even to the point that taking a photo, it showed droplets of rain in the picture, even though i couldn’t see any droplets! Definitely time to be back in the car....especially as it started to rain, and i didn’t have my full waterproof! I was slightly drenched when i got back to the car, so i headed on back around the rest of the park loop road, before heading back to the motel to dry out.
The next day was forecast for rain, but the morning started off promising, so i headed down into Bar Harbor, the main town, to see the shops, harbour, find the post office, and for brunch. French Toast and Pancakes seem to be popular, with a variety of toppings, so it was ¾” thick wedges of French Toast with Bacon and maple syrup! Oh and of course the bottomless coffee. Whilst having brunch, the heavens opened...heavy rain. So not much point in trying to walk, and not wanting to stay at the motel, i took off for a drive, turning this way and that, ending up off the island, did some shopping, and then back to the motel. It is quite liberating just meandering, and not really knowing where you are going, no agenda, but with a vague idea of where you are going.
Tuesday, the weather had changed...glorious sunshine, very warm. As this was my last full day on the island, i really wanted to see it at its best. I joined many other people on the road up to the top of Cadillac Mountain; even saw some birds of prey (poss eagles). Back down the mountain, following the Park Loop Road, to the small botanical gardens, and then passing Sand Beach....no place to park, even a mile or more along the road was full – lots of people on the beach. Further on down to Otter Point, to relax and ocean watch for a short while.
Then further onto Jordan Pond....it’s a lake really. There is a 3.3 mile loop around the lake roughly on the water’s edge...i had intended to find a spot to stop, sit and read a book, but ended up walking around the whole lake. The path on the west side meanders through the trees, with a boardwalk, to protect the land and tree roots, then amongst the rocks/boulders – the path was marked by a pink line – and through grassland, before following a granite patch along the north and east side.
The peacefulness of it all was awesome, the changing views, the reflections in the water, the wildlife.....loonies (type of duck), small fish, tadpoles, frogs. I did manage to find a nice rock on the water’s edge to stop and read my book, and while away the time in the sun.

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