Summary of time:
• Driving lots of kilometres
• Flat Tyre
• Sitting in various places – woods, mountains - just chilling out
• See Small Black Bear
• Parc Miguasha – Fossil park at Miguasha, showing many fossils from the Devonian period (380 million years ago)
Handy hints –
Remember to check your speed, driving an automatic means that you can easily exceed – many people go faster though! – limits are regularly displayed along the road and warnings of decreases are around
o 100 kph – Highways (Motorways)
o 90 kph – Routes (A Roads)
o 80 kph or 70 kph or 60 kph or 50 kph – Towns / Villages
o 70 kph or 50 kph – Road works
In many places (not Montreal or Quebec(some parts)) when your traffic light is red and you are turning right, then if it is clear then you can go.
I eventually headed off about 2pm, having loaded the car and filled up and got the directions out of Montreal. I know it was Friday, but there seemed to be a lot of traffic on the roads and it was only heading towards 3pm
Having made sure i followed the Quebec signs and not USA, i was on the highway. They are only 2 lanes on each side, but the total width is like a 6 lane either side motorway in the UK (Which we don’t have) so there is loads of space!
So it was relax and get going, it’s about 250km Montreal to Quebec, and then i was over half way. I was heading up the East Side of the St Lawrence River to Riviere du Loup. This is almost an un-supposing town, in the middle of nowhere but on the edge of several things. It is a gateway to the Maritimes, you can head east to Edmunston in New Brunswick, or North up to the Gaspe Peninsula, or you can catch a ferry across to St Simeon (in the Charlevoix). But it is a great little town, many shops and restaurants (although did not visit them), a couple of parks with several walks, or walk along the St Lawrence River.
Arriving Friday evening, i arrived just in time for dinner at the hostel – Homemade Veg Soup, Crepes with Ham, Asparagus and Cheese sauce, Lava Cake (Small Chocolate cakes, as you dig in the insides ooze out) with Ice cream followed by coffee.
What a great way to get to know the staff. My French was not up to much, although could follow some of the conversation, they did hold some of it in English for me.
Saturday was a bright morning, so i decided to walk up the Main Street to Parc du Chutes (Waterfall Park). There were several walks criss crossing in the forest and along the River. I started on one path and when that started to go away from the River, i followed another route. Taking benefit of the several seats at “beauty spots” along the walk, and just taking time to chill out. As i was going back up the river, there was some special thing to do with fishing, lots of people were out with their rods, all ages. There was a banner but i didn’t really read it. I eventually took the path that went up to the top of the falls.
The falls that exist, have been changed, so that the hydro electric plant can have some benefit (they have been known to stop the water going over the falls totally, and through the plant).
Lunch time was approaching, so i collected the car and headed down to St Lawrence River and up to a view point. Great views over the river and away from the crowds.
I went down to the lower road, where there was a path, swings, and the tide being out meant there was a sort of beach.
I was off for another stroll (about 45 mins) to the harbour, the path followed the one way road, past a small village – they had great views of the River! At the harbour, a boat must have been due as cars were lining up in the appropriate rows. Down at the harbour, the wind had picked up. The stroll back was great. At one point there was much graffiti on the rocks, but one point the rock looked like a nose, so someone had painted on the face of an Indian (on both sides).
I strolled along the beach, interesting rock formations, small shells, and some sand. There were several families on the swings, but not many on the beach.
Time to head back, got the car but as i started to drive, something didn’t sound right, so i stopped near the entrance to the car park, got out and i had a very flat passenger front tyre. Oh no!!
There was a guy sat in a car nearby, i asked if he spoke English, no, and then asked if he could help, he said something, looked at the tyre and got back in his car. Ok, this is the modern age, us women could do stuff. I went to the boot, found the spare, jack etc. I set about trying to get the tyre off. Jack got the car up, got the hub cap off, but the bolts were not moving a millimetre! Several people passed, but no-one spoke or offered a hand. Several prayers were being shot up for an angel, some help. A female arrived, and getting her skates on, she didn’t speak English (well she said not, but could actually speak some). She offered her phone, but then rang a friend, found the nearest garage, and then drove me to them. She then explained the situation, and they were going to come to the car, Anne then took me back to the car, and left after much thanks from me, and went off skating.
The man from the garage, put air in the tyre, couldn’t see it going down, so suggested i went back to the garage. After taking the tyre off, he checked for air bubbles, and found none. But taking the tyre off the metal, he found the problem...inside the tyre there was loads of what looked like soot, but was small bits of tyre!!! Oh goodness, i’m glad i was able to sort it there, and not stuck somewhere in the middle of nowhere!
Soon sorted, it was back to the hostel for dinner, and pudding was Tarte aux sucre – that’s right Sugar Tart....it was so sweet, didn’t bother with sugar for my coffee as i had been overloaded.
Sunday, time to pack up and move on. The weather was sunny, i’m so glad i had air con in the car. So up the coast and over the peninsular to Pointe-a-la-Garde, and to the hostel that is a man’s dream..a chateau that he is still building. I had lunch on route, enjoying the great views through the valley, and along the rivers. There are some great road signs – Beware of the Deer, Beware of the Moose, Beware the Quad bike Tracks start / end
I was over fairly early, so got my stuff in at the hostel – as i wanted to stay in the dorm (much cheaper) this was at the house and not the chateau. I got back in the car and drove along the coast, i love driving, seeing the changing scenery and different villages / towns. Not keen on the road works, but as it was Sunday, there was nobody actually working, just bad surfaces!!
Arriving back it was dinner up at the chateau – one of the highlights / specialties. Most people only tend to come and stop for one night on their way past. Dinner was Maple Ham, Rice and Veg. Salad. Maple Sponge and Maple Ice Cream. The ice cream was bought, but Ham and Sponge were done on site, with local Maple Syrup. I got chatting with 3 couples currently all living in Ontario (1 couple from BC, 1 couple were born in Italy, but moved to Belgium when young) and were cycling about the Gaspe Peninsular. There was much interest in the fact that i’m on holiday for a year, but also doing it on my own.
I’d decided to book for 3 nights here but not really sure of what i was going to do. I’d now realised that the distance up to the top of the peninsular was much further than i thought, so what to do. Looking at the map, i drove off up to the mountains in the peninsular, still quite a drive, but with the hope of finding somewhere just to park up and chill out. I did...Pique Nique de L’Oasise. It had been great driving up to the mountains the highest point on the road was 533m. The site was an oasis, just up above the road, a few tables and a view across to the mountains. There are not many cars on the road, so they didn’t disturb the music of the different birds singing and the babble of the river and the waterfall. It was great just getting an opportunity to stop and listen to what is happening around. Whilst i was chilling a chipmunk ran past within a foot of me. I spent a few hours there. But i still had to drive back, through the small rain shower...and some road works, but i was lucky (but not camera lucky). On the road back, i got a surprise....as i drove past one part a small black bear was returning to the trees beside the road (less than 8 ft) from the car!!! I couldn’t stop as there were cars behind, but also by the time i had gotten the camera he would have been gone. He was heading to the river, where a few people were salmon fishing at intervals. I couldn’t believe my luck.
The rest of the drive back was not very eventful. A quiet dinner back at the hostel, but got to know my new roommate Karin, who was from nr Racine, Quebec.
Tuesday started absolutely fab....the sun was shining, so time for a bit of catching the rays in the “garden” and reading a good book. It’s great when there is someone else who comes up with a plan. Karin wanted to go to Parc Miguasha, it is a national park in Quebec, but also a site of scientific interest. It is a site where many fossils have been discovered (plants and fish) from a period in history called “Devonian” (actually named after Devon in UK), which is 380 million years ago.
It was interesting to learn about the planet and it’s evolution...and how we are related to the fish (what about the monkey?)?!?!?
Did you know that 2009 is the year of Darwin...It’s 200 years since he was born and 150 years since his book “On the Origin of Species” was published.
It was interesting to see how fossils are cleaned and history uncovered. It is a lengthy process and requires the use of the Dentist poky tool to chip away at the bits that are not the fossil.
Even though it had been a sunny morning, the clouds came in and it started to rain about the time that Karin and i fancied a walk. Oh well time for a coffee....
Next day it was time to move. I was heading for Prince Edward Island, but unfortunately i couldn’t get into the hostel until Friday evening, so i had two days to do something. So off i went into New Brunswick, crossing over the bridge at Pointe a la Croix / Campbellton meant that i changed Time Zone. New Brunswick and the other Maritime Provinces (Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia & Newfoundland and Labrador) are only 4 hours behind GMT.
The weather being average, and because i had plenty of time, i decided to drive the slower route around the coast road, and see where i ended up.
The journey was slower because there are lots of small villages, so the speed limits keep changing, but also because there is much investment in road works! At least the instructions are in English as well as French.
It was interesting driving along and seeing all these small communities...there are a lot of churches.
Lunchtime i had arrived into the town of Bathurst, so followed the signs to the beach, to park up and chill out. The sun was shining and there were not many clouds in the sky. Actually those clouds there were up there, i watched them vaporise in front of my eyes...fascinating.
Eventually it was time to get back in the car and to head off. The map i had was detailed for Quebec province, and only a vague map for New Brunswick, so not all the roads that i was passing were listed, but i had a vague idea of where i was heading. Back along the coastal roads, and onto Miramichi. This time i passed a few Industrial plants, none of them small. One was a saw mill factory, where there was hundreds of piles of sawn wood.
As i was travelling along Route 11, i liked the sound of the name “Richibucto”, didn’t know what was there...a small town...but the signs said there was accommodation. It all seemed quiet, and the first motel i tried was even open yet....but they did direct me to the other motel across the other side of town.
In some respects being in a motel is isolating, but it was great....a room to myself (two queen sized beds), a bath, tv, internet access...it was nice to feel that the space was all mine. Dinner in the restaurant was great, a home cooked meal....pork chops, mash and veg...great with a glass or two of Moose ale. The waitress let me know of a great place to visit if i had the time.
Next day was another fine day so i decided to visit Bouctouche (Kent County), and the infamous sand dunes. The Irving Eco-Centre at La dune de Bouctouche. The sand dune is 12km long and has a lighthouse at the end. The eco system of the dunes supports many rare plants and wildlife. The piper plover nests here, and many areas of the dunes are not available for walking along. To let visitors see whats going on, they have created a boardwalk that meanders for about 2km, with information on the history of the area, the wildlife, the plant life, and the fishing industry (lobster, clams and mussels). You may also see the Great Blue Heron, and the Red Fox (only at dawn or dusk). I also saw some martins ducking and diving around a small sand bank.
At the end of the boardwalk, you can continue along the beach, spend time on the beach, but making sure to keep close to the waters edge, so as to protect the dunes and it’s eco system. I probably walked for another km or so, and decided that i didn’t fancy paddling, as the water at the edge was full of silt...actually i found a small section where i could paddle (and no silt) in the Gulf of St Lawrence. The sun was up and walking barefoot was ok if you stuck to the sand that was still damp. When i had to walk back to the boardwalk on the nice white sand i almost burnt my feet from the heat.
Lunch was Lobster roll, fries, and green coleslaw...yes green, a mint green colour.
Back on the road, and off down Highway 11 and 15. Having found the route to Confederation Bridge (which takes you over the water to PEI) i took some of the smaller roads, in the hope of finding somewhere to stay. This area was more farming area, and actually started to see the usual things of the farming community...cows.
Eventually driving slightly south, i found a motel at Sackville, another night to be anonymous, and hide away. Didn’t really venture from the room, but i did pass a huge amount of masts, which was to connected to Radio Canada.
Next day it was off to PEI.
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