Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Toronto





It’s finally here! The Long Holiday
INFO
Ontario is the second largest province of Canada and links to the USA, in some places the border is in the middle of a river or Lake. Toronto is the largest city of Canada, although the capital of Canada is Ottawa (visiting next).Toronto is the capital of Ontario, and has been deemed the most multi-cultural place according to Unesco. It is also the nation’s financial, communications and business capital.
Another fame of Toronto is that it is the Hollywood of the North. Many places in around have been used instead of New York or America.
It sits on the shores of Lake Ontario, one of the 5 Great Lakes to St Lawrence shared with America. It is the smallest but is the second deepest. At the deepest point, if you but the CN Tower in, it would come about half way up the tower, but if you put in the Eiffel Tower, you wouldn't see it!
There have been 2 major fires of Toronto, the last in 1904 which have destroyed much of the history, but left space for progress to take place.
It’s time zone is 5 hours behind the UK.
THE TRIP
Landing at Toronto, the time had gone back 5 hours, and it was mid afternoon, the temperature on landing was the same as the UK..... 14 degrees, and also the weather was the same...raining! I hadn’t packed a decent (heavy) waterproof, just a cheap rain mac. I caught the express shuttle into downtown and then had a 10 min walk to the hostel (in the rain) and i was drenched by the time i arrived. Having booked in, i was organising all my stuff around in the bags, and by 8 (1am in the UK) i was in bed and was asleep by 9 (something to do with no sleep on the plane!) and really didn’t hear any of my roommates. I slept right through til about 6.30am local time and decided it was too early so had a lie in and read my book til 8 (1pm UK time!)
The weather outside did not look particularly good, so i packed my rain mac and didn’t pack the sun tan lotion. After a hearty English breakfast and a strong coffee, i set off with the map and headed off towards the CN Tower (553m high and held until recently the record for the highest freestanding building). I like the street layouts here on the whole it is the grid system, roads running north/south or east/west. The longest road is called Yonge Street, which goes on for miles turning into Highway 11 and then back into Yonge Street further up state. It did try to claim the title of the longest road, but there was many who complained as it changed it’s name, and therefore it had to relinquish the title.
I had a little book to get me into the 5 top attractions, so off up the CN Tower (Canadian National Tower) i went (1365ft to the viewing tower). It takes 58 secs to get up to the viewing tower at about 15 miles per hour. I didn’t pay the extra to go higher. I walked around and took a few photos and got to see some great views as the clouds were going. I then went down a level where there is a glass floor you can stand on. Which i did! And i also went for a walk on the outside walkway.
After a quick trip back down, i noticed that there was a micro brewery in the railway round house, so thought i would nip in for a quick tour and pint...no such luck, it didn’t open for ½ hour and tours where an hour later, so i decided to venture for a walk, but on the way changed my mind and decided to go on one off these sight seeing buses (it was a London Red Double Decker!!) and get a real feel for the city. So off we went, the sun was out and things were great. There is such a diverse culture of buildings (especially as there have been 2 great fires, destroying many buildings including the fire houses!). Some of the old buildings have been preserved and the modern constructions added onto them! I saw the Flat Iron building, which was built before the one in New York! I did the full tour, even though you can hop on and off – the ticket lasts for 7 days so i’ll hop on and off at other points. After lunch at the harbour i took the boat trip around Toronto Islands...realising that i had probably caught the sun – and i had, a great red face that night!
On the walk back to the hostel there were two lots of road blocks...ex presidents Clinton and Bush were speaking at some conference, and there was a cycle race around a couple of blocks near the hostel. There was a kids race at 5 and then the amateur race at 5.45 and the pro race at 7.30. The adult races were riding around the 800m block for 1 ½ hours and then a 5 circuit sprint!! I saw about 2/3 of the amateur race, including a crash in the last 10 mins taking out about 10 riders. I then decided to move position and stay for the start of the pro race, of which there was a big crash within the 2nd lap taking out about 10 cyclists! I got chatting to Lindsey and Corey. We watched an amazing race as 1 rider decided to make a break for it and after about 45 mins had caught up with the back of the main pack, and stayed with the remaining group till the end. Any lose riders that he over took had to drop out.... Well i had to stop to the end, although there was a problem, it started to drizzle just a few drops, but then it got heavier, and i hadn’t bought my rain mac out!! Lindsey bought coffees, and then rescued me with a bin bag! Although i still looked like a drowned rat. Thanks Lindsey and Corey, great getting to spend time with you.
Saturday, another slow start, but i was up and out doing some more of the sight seeing, but actually visiting places. The Distillery District, where there used to be a distillery village (no vehicles) cobbled streets, and now the buildings are converted to restaurants, cafes, shops, art places, apartments, market and a brewery. From there (using the hop on / off bus) i headed up to Casa Loma.
This is a Castle on the hill, which was built around 1910-1915, with 4 different towers (German, French, ? and Scottish). I did the tour and went right up to the top of the Scottish tower. Some amazing views, but steep stairs. You may have seen this building in some films...Xmen – Xaviers School, or Cocktail...
The house was built by a gentleman called Sir Henry Pellat, a wealthy financier, who had speculated with Electricity and railways and other things, before the war bought land at a time when the country was investing in war bonds. The council realised that the building was worth more and upped the rates, but Henry could not pay so moved out and not wanting to go bankrupt, sold off all he had and then left the council the house, which was eventually given to an organisation to run as a tourist place...alot of possessions previously owned by Sir Henry made it back there via donations. He had hoped that the Royal Family would visit and built the Windsor room, but they never did. Sir Henry’s wife was a big supporter of the Girl Guides.
Then back on the bus and off to the Royal Ontario Museum for some culture. It is Canada’s biggest museum and it is still growing. It was a diverse museum with a mix of cultural, bio diversity, dinosaurs, gems, and wedgewood. It was a mix of buildings as well. A couple of years ago an extension was added, a glass building stuck on the front of the building, but is only attached to the original building by a couple of points, and is at a funny angle to the original building.
Back on the bus to the CN Tower, and then for a walk back to the hostel (not via a direct route though!) It is great being able to wander, and not feel you’re getting too lost. The hostel is directly opposite the Anglican Cathedral. I don’t feel that i’m in a big city..i don’t like London as i feel there is nowhere to escape to...don’t feel that here.
Sunday proved to be a day of blue skies, but with a bit of a breeze. I decided that it was a walking day. From the hostel i walked up to the Eaton Centre, which is Canada’s largest Urban Shopping Centre (or 4th largest shopping centre in Canada). Arriving at 11am not many of the shops were open, although they slowly did. It was nice just being able to walk around and not be crowded in by people! And also window shop! From Eaton Centre i wandered off heading towards China town (the street signs are in English and Chinese) and onto Spadina, passing the Fashion District, and then back on King Street, through the Entertainment district, and then back down to passed the CN Tower. By the Tower is the Rogers Building which is the home of the Blue Jays Baseball team and there was a game starting shortly (on Sat they had beaten the Boston Red Sox 5-3) and i was tempted, but the draw of the Steam Whistle Brewery was too much! I thought i could watch baseball somewhere else.
The Brewery was set up by 3 guys who had been fired from their previous brewery when it had been bought out (one way to get rid of the competition). It brews one Pilsner beer, and the Brew Master has come from Czech Repulic, and from the home of the original Pilsner. The Steam Whistle name, comes from the steam whistle that is traditionally blown to signify the end of the working day at 5pm. Although the relevance of being in the Railway Round House (place where engines were stored at night, and a turntable is used to turn engines to put them in the relevant bay). In this particular roundhouse, they had used steam to keep engines fired up, etc! The building was a ruin several years ago, with a roof that was badly damaged by steam. The city did not want to destroy the building, but not sure what to do. The Conference Centre nearby needing parking to be built, but as all the surrounding area had been designated for condo’s, then the only thing to do was to go down. The Centre removed the round house, dug down and built their garage parking, and then using the original 1919 plans rebuilt the roundhouse with original building materials. The roof was rebuilt, using the original style of materials to the original design (at a cost of C$11m), and at the end of the process there was only 11 bricks left over!!! The building work is not yet fully complete, they are still putting the turntable and track in, as well as some of the signal boxes etc
After doing a tour, with a free beer at the start and finish, i decided that i didn’t want to use up the 3rd voucher myself, so offered it to a guy who was at the bar ordering drinks for him, his wife, and another couple. They asked me to join them and we chatted about travel, and plans. It was a great way to while away another hour or so. But i needed food, we said farewell and moved off in different directions. I headed back to the Eaton Centre, for some cheap fast food, but decided to walk the underground.
Toronto has an underground walkway called PATH (an accidental labyrinth of subterranean corridors covering 5km). It’s great way to get between some places, and it is lined with shops and food places. Which on a Sunday are all closed, and there is hardly anyone walking through...it is so easy to get lost without a map (the ones every so often on the route are not always easy to follow) or a friendly gentleman who is heading in a similar direction and will explain the bit the he wasn’t doing. The PATH goes right into The Bay (the Hudson Bay Company Store), across the road from the Eaton Centre. Amazing. Then back to the Hostel via more meanderings for Sunday Dinner (Roast Beef and Yorkshire pud yes)
My final full day in Toronto and it is off to Niagara Falls. Apparently it is better to be going from the Canadian side, and i can concur. You get a better view of the American Falls (as you look on to them) and the Canadian Horseshoe Falls. From both sides you can go on the Maid of the Mist and go behind the back of the relevant water fall. The day was overcast but not cold, although there it was damp (if you got anywhere near the mist from the falls)
So off on the Maid of the Mist, wearing our lovely blue coat (waterproof). Handy tips – make sure sleeves are pulled up (done), wear shorts or easy drying trousers (done), remove watches if not waterproof (done), and remove glasses when near the falls (not done). When you are in the Horseshoe Falls, there is so much mist that you are not able to take pictures as you are getting very wet. The bottom part of my trousers were drenched (glad i wasn’t wearing jeans!!!), the glasses were all wet, and you really couldn’t see much. A fantastic experience. I was there. There was a couple of hours before the bus was leaving, and if you rushed you could have managed to get behind the falls as well, or go for a quick gamble at the casino or venture through the tourist shops. Wanting to meander with a friend (sorry never caught your name, but know you and your husband will have a great time in the uk...not as cold as Vancouver in the winter) who i had met at the hostel and take pictures and have a bite to eat. The shuttle then took us down along the Niagara River, and down to the Largest Whirlpool in the world. It does not go very fast, but amazing to see. We followed the Niagara Escapement down to where the Niagara Falls had original started 10,000+ years ago, and it has now moved 11km upstream, apparently it is moving still at 1ft (30 cm) per every 10 years. The American / Canadian border goes through the middle of Niagara River. We drove on down to Niagara on the Lake It was the first British City, nr Fort George where the British and Americans had fought bitterly about the ownership of the Niagara River, before having a truce and putting the border in the middle. There has been great store by maintaining the buildings and it is a quaint small town, with many shops and cafes, but it is not commercially tourist tacky.
The area is a great region for wines, and is one of the few places in the world where they make Ice Wine (1 small bottle of this uses the same number of grapes as 35 bottles of normal table wine!!). The process is to leave some of the grapes from harvest time in sept on the vine (but covered so birds do not eat them). Then wait for winter. The process requires for the grapes to go through a frost / thaw process (freeze at night and thaw during the day). When the grapes have been exposed to 3 consecutive nights of -10 to -14 degrees C, then in the middle of the night the grapes are harvested by night, and follow the normal wine process. The ice wine is a very sweet wine, but not to be drunk to quickly as a bottle (not even a 75cl bottle) can cost over C$60 (current exchange £36!). The wines at the winery we visited are dry, even doing a cabernet merlot. The winery is called 20 bees (after the 20 busy people who set it up) and one of the major current shareholders is Dan Akroyd. We got to try 2 normal wines and an ice wine (for free), although i was tempted to buy a little sample bottle of the ice wine for my dad, as he enjoys his dessert wine...dad you’ll have to wait until august for it though!
Then it was back to Toronto, to sort stuff out for moving to Ottowa on Tuesday.
Sorry for the long tale, but this is also my diary.

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