Wednesday, 8 April 2009

Week 3 South Africa Baz Bus Trip Knysna and return back to cape town



There are many things you learn as you move around the world, some of the facts about the country, people you meet, animals in their natural habit or indigenous trees/plants, and also about political or world events.

In South Africa it is there election campaign time, with voting on April 22, just after i leave. The ANC is the current ruling party, and it is highly likely that they will get in again, with their Leader Mr Zumo being president. He was under investigation for corruption charges, but they were all dropped (as many thought they would, irrespective if they thought that he was guilty or not). Several of the parties are trying to get the votes by “proving” their faith and saying God is on their side, speaking at various church / Christian meetings. God and politics rarely mix well, as how is God on everyone’s side? Many debates could be started, on this and the ethics involved with religion and politics, which i don’t want to start.

The other major thing is about 2010 – the Football World Cup. There are many things that could also be said about this. Whether you love or hate the game, when it is to be played in a country like South Africa, it means that many things are constructed, roads are improved, housing built, and certainly job creation for many. There are some who would comment that the only workers seen on the road building are blacks, and some feel that it is not right that some jobs are still only done by the non white community, but whatever your views in this current world climate, isn’t it better that people are employed? From being in Uganda, and also from understanding a little of what was apartheid, i think that there is changes in the country, and people should be employed whatever their skin colour, in whatever jobs. Progress and change can be slow, but at least if it’s happening then that is good.
Knysna is a town built up from a Gold Rush back in the 1880’s, although there was not huge quantities found, people came from around the world – USA, Britain, France. It is a estuary, where there are two headlands, creating a “narrow” channel for the sea to come through. It is a tidal estuary and as you can image there is fresh fish. Also found in the Estuary, is the Knysna Sea Horse, and a delicate pansy shell. Knysna is a tourist town, with some very nice accommodation, with a marina, and a Nature Reserve on one of the headlines, which can be visited, and has a huge evergreen forest and is the largest protected canopy forest in Southern Africa.
In 2010, Knysna is a training ground for the England Team, and there are plenty of shops for the WAGS as well. The German team are based at George, which has the nearest airport, and is about 60km away, and slightly inland.

Arriving in Knysna, it was a bit cloudy and not as warm, but that is fine to have a nosey round the town, go for a coffee, and get a feel for what’s where. I found Mugg & Bean (coffee house chain) and promptly had coffee and scones. There are currently sculptors on display, with wheels, buckets, and flowing water. Rather interesting watching it all turn. Then it was a wander through the malls, shops and down to the water front. There is a station for the steam railway – Outeniqua Choo Tjoe – which comes from George, but due to flooding a couple of years ago, the railway has not been used. They had the train going from George to Mossel Bay, but had recently been stopped as it was not economical, and there are plans (at great expense) to reopen the line to Knysna. The wind and drizzle meant having to wear a jumper again!

A quiet evening at the backpackers, was in order, an opportunity to catch up on a few emails etc. Having eaten, i wasn’t going to be having the bbq, but decided that it was a pleasant evening to sit around the braai. Jay – who sorted all the activities – Nicole, a semi permanent resident in Knysna, and another guy where out. A great way to chat about life, faith and the world. Interesting concepts on faith, and how we are all gods, in control and in harmony with everything. Also, to be able to relax and to enjoy nature, you need a drink, and a smoke (cigarettes and marijuana). Jay needed to take his dogs for a walk, so around 10.30 we headed off up to the woods and a lake (not that you could see it in the dark), collected the dogs, and when up at a certain point, the dogs jumped out, and ran in front of the vehicle for the couple of miles to the lake! We got and watched the stars, galaxy, and carried on our conversations, drink etc. I must add that i was not drinking or smoking, and they said it was amazing that i could enjoy being out there without needing anything to relax and enjoy it! What a witness. We had to agree to differ on certain things of faith, but at least we could discuss. After a while, it was time to go back, so the dogs ran in front of the vehicle again, and at the point where they had jumped out, they got back in (we did stop for them). Had to be quiet getting back into the dorm.

(Fri) Having been out late, it was almost a struggle to get up, but to be awake was easy, as a large group of 14 were being served their breakfast, and were unable to keep the noise level down. It was misty outside, although the temp was supposed to be 33 degrees. Once the group had finished being served, i was able to get my breakfast, but decided to sit outside on the deck, peaceful and also great when you could see the mist dispersing and the sun starting to shine. I had a 9am appointment with Paul (a rasta) who was taking me for a 3-4km walk in the woods, to the old mine area. The sun was warming up at this point, so i was glad to be going to the forest. On the way some levret monkeys were crossing the road.
We stopped at the big tree, which is a huge Outeniqua Yellowwood, and learned that these trees, elephants had tested their strength against – trying to move them. The forest was home, many years previous to elephants, and there were still 3 roaming the forest (unfortunately we didn’t get to see them). One female of the original herd, and two brought into to try and repopulate the forest. In the 1900’s a British man had been given permission to shoot 1 elephant, but actually shot a mother and 4 young, many believe that this was what caused the demise of the herd – 4 potential breeding elephants, all gone in a moment. Around the big tree, and many of the roads are based on the old elephant trails.
We headed into the forest, parked up and walked up Jubilee Creek, passing the indigenous trees – Outeniqua Yellowwood, Stinkwood, Real Yellowwood, White Elder and Hard Pear (the fruits are edible by the monkeys / baboons). There was an amazing tranquillity about the woods (although the birds were singing, and probably the monkeys chatting as well), with non polluted air (the moss was growing here the same as Tsitsikamma), and many spider webs. Paul and I were competing on who could get the best picture of the spiders web, with dew and sunlight. It was a real nature walk, and historical as well. In the waterfall and pool (due to lack of water, the fall was not much) we saw a few tiny frogs, and various other water life. This pool was a source of water for the mining community that had existed, and there were a few tunnels you could walk into as well (stoop in anyway). There were 4 Eucalyptus trees, that had been ring barked ( a huge ring of bark removed to kill the tree) as they were not indigenous, and when walking back the white tops of them stood out against the blue sky.
Getting back to the vehicle, we had a snack and i got to see the local Robin (orange breast, but blue wings). Then back to Knysna.
The afternoon plans changed (from doing nothing), to go for a canoe trip up the Knysna river. Roz (an Australian) had changed her plans from doing a township tour to go for a canoe, as it was a great day, so i tagged along as well.
The river is slightly tidal and the tide was on it’s way out, but also low due to the lack of rains. I hadn’t been canoeing for some time (well solo canoeing anyway), and Roz was a keen kayaker back in Oz, but the plan was for a gentle trip. We headed out, and although a steady slow pace was kept up, i was at the back of the 4 of us. Also i couldn’t understand why the water level was slowly rising in the canoe. I know that some water drips off the paddle, but i wasn’t that bad a canoeist. I found that my canoe also had a real tendency to steer left (or was that just me). It was great to mosey on down the river, we eventually reached half way and time for a break. Paul and Jonathon, were going to jump off the bridge (twice) but Roz and I declined. Before we set off again, the water was tipped out of all the canoes, and it was deemed that mine had a leak, and so Paul swapped with me. The river had dropped lower so on the way back, some of the unseen rocks were now visible and in a couple places, we even had to get out to be able to carry on. Once back and the water was removed from the canoes, there was even more water, in the one i had been in first.
What a way to while away an afternoon, in the sun.
Roz and I decided to have dinner on the waterfront, and decided to opt for Caffe Mario’s where Roz knew they did great coffee. As Knysna is known for it’s fish, i nearly didn’t opt for fish, but the catch of the day was tuna. It was fab. Roz and i had a great time, especially as we saw the little drawbridge (which was lit up) being raised for a boat to go up the canal. Roz also gave some tips on New Zealand, and great places for kayaking and walking the swing bridges. Thanks Roz.

Saturday was my return to cape town, with a long drive on the bus in the heat, and potential delays due to road works (upto 1 ½ hrs) I knew that the lunch stop at McD’s in George, and decided that i wanted something better. Roz and i had coffee at Mario’s again, so i ordered a take away sandwich (so big it did my lunch and dinner). The bus collected me on time about 1 and was reasonably full, but over the several stops there was changes in the people. Only a few of us would be there til cape town (as got nearer there was more). It’s great getting close to people on a warm bus...not – sticky.
The scenery was ever changing, but the mountains towered over it all. I looked to see if i could see the elephants at the Lodge again, but not this time. We saw the sun set over the hills in front of us, and it soon became dark. So missed out on seeing all the laden fruit trees, but on going over the mountain it was amazing seeing all the lights from the towns along False Bay. Our arrival time in Cape was about 9.30 – 10pm ish. This doesn’t allow for stop times (should be 20 but baz bus time is normally + 10 mins). We were fortunate, on getting to the roadworks between Swellendam and Hermanus stop, because, if the light wasn’t green as we arrived, we were only stopped for a few minutes. Our driver also liked a cigarette, so had one at every stop. Fortunately, in Cape Town, my stop was first so i got in about 10pm, and Gilly and Brian picked me up. It was great to be back “home”

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